Due South; or, Cuba Past and PresentBallou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
History
Due South; or, Cuba Past and Present
Ballou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
Cuba
Opposite the Indian Paseo, General Tacon, during his governorship of
the island, constructed a broad camp-ground for military parades in
what is now becoming the heart of the city, though outside the limits
of the old city walls. He called it the Campo de Marte, and surrounded
the whole space, ten acres, more or less, with a high ornamental iron
fence. It is in form a perfect square, and on each of the four sides
was placed a broad, pretentious gateway, flanked by heavy square
pillars. That on the west side he named Puerta de Colon; on the north,
Puerta de Cortes; on the south, Puerta de Pizarro; and on the east
side, facing the city, he gave the gate the name of Puerta de Tacon.
His administration has been more praised and more censured than that
of any of his predecessors since the days of Velasquez. This Campo de
Marte, which, as stated, was originally intended for military purposes
generally, is now converted into a public park, laid out with spacious
walks, fountains, handsome trees, and carriage-ways. The gates have
been removed, and the whole place thrown open as a thoroughfare and
pleasure-ground.
Speaking of this open square brings us to the subject of hotels in
Havana, and as we have so often been questioned upon this subject,
doubtless a few words upon the matter will interest the general
reader. We made our temporary home for nearly a month at the Hotel
Telegrafo, but why it is so called we do not know. It is considered to
be one of the best in the city, and is centrally situated, being
opposite to the Campo de Marte. There was a chief clerk who spoke
English, and another who spoke French, and two guides who possessed
the same facilities. The price of board was from four to five dollars
per day, including meals and service. The rooms were very small, table
fair, plenty of fruits and preserves, but the meats were poor. Fish
was always fresh and good in Havana. Coffee and tea were poor. If one
desires to procure good coffee, as a rule, look for it anywhere rather
than in countries where it is grown. Cleanliness was not considered as
being an indispensable virtue in the Telegrafo. Drainage received but
little attention, and the domestic offices of the house were seriously
offensive. The yellow fever does not prevail in Havana except in
summer, say from May to October; but according to recognized sanitary
rules it should rage there every month in the year. The hotels in
peninsular Spain are dirty enough to disgust any one, but those of
Havana are a degree worse in this respect. Any of our readers who
have chanced in their travels upon the Fonda de Rafaela, for
instance, at Burgos, in Spain, will understand us fully. It was of no
use to remove elsewhere; after examining the other hotels it was
thought best to remain at the Telegrafo, on the principle adopted by
the Irishman, who, though not inclined to believe in Purgatory, yet
accepted this item of faith lest he should go further and fare worse.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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