Due South; or, Cuba Past and PresentBallou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
History
Due South; or, Cuba Past and Present
Ballou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
Cuba
The low-lying, many-colored city of Havana, called San Cristobel,
after the great discoverer, was originally surrounded by a wall,
though the population has long since extended its dwellings and
business structures far into what was, half a century since, the
suburbs. A portion of the old wall is still extant, crumbling and
decayed, but it has mostly disappeared. The narrow streets are paved
or macadamized, and cross each other at right angles, like those of
Philadelphia, but in their dimensions reminding one of continental
Toledo, whose Moorish architecture is also duplicated here. There are
no sidewalks, unless a narrow line of flagstones can be so called, and
in fact the people have less use for them where nearly every one rides
in a victoria, the fare being but sixteen cents per mile. A woman of
respectability is scarcely ever seen walking in the streets, unless
she is a foreigner, or of the lower class, such as sellers of fruit,
etc. Those living in close proximity to the churches are sometimes
seen proceeding to early mass, accompanied by a negress carrying a
portable seat, or a bit of carpet on which to kneel upon the marble
floor of the cathedral. But even this is exceptional. Cuban etiquette
says that a lady must not be seen on the streets except in a vehicle,
and only Americans, English, and other foreigners disregard the rule.
The architecture of the dwelling-houses is exceedingly heavy, giving
them the appearance of great age. They are built of the porous stone
so abundant upon the island, which, though soft when first worked into
suitable blocks, becomes as hard as granite by exposure to the
atmosphere. The façades of the town houses are nearly always covered
with stucco. Their combination of colors, yellow, green, and blue,
harmonizes with the glowing atmosphere of the tropics. This will
strike the stranger at first as being very odd; there is no system
observed, the tenant of each dwelling following his individual fancy
as to the hue he will adopt, a dingy yellow prevailing. Standing upon
the Campo de Marte and looking in any direction, these changing colors
give a picturesque effect to the range of buildings which surround the
broad field. In this vicinity the structures are nearly all of two
full stories, and many with rows of lofty pillars supporting broad
verandas, including one or two palaces, one fine large club-house,
some government offices, and the Telegrafo Hotel. These varying colors
are not for fancy alone, they have a raison d'être; namely, to absorb
the sharp rays of the constant sunshine. But for some toning down of
the glare, one's eyes would hardly be able to sustain the power of
vision. The vividness with which each individual building and object
stands out in the clear liquid light is one of the first peculiarities
which will strike the stranger.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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