Dumas, Alexandre, 1802-1870; Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- History -- 19th century
It is pleasant to read of Alexandre Dumas' culinary skill, though the
repetition of the fact has appeared in the works of well-nigh every writer
who has written of the Paris of the fifties and sixties. The dinners at
his apartments in the Boulevard Malesherbes were worthy of Soyer or even
of Brillat-Savarin himself in his best days. In his last "Causeries
Culinaires," the author of "Monte Cristo" tells us that the Bourbon kings
were specially fond of soup. "The family," he writes, "from Louis XIV. to
the last of their race who reigned in France, have been great eaters. The
Grand Monarque commenced his dinner by two and sometimes three different
kinds of soup; Louis-Philippe by four plates of various species of this
comestible; in the fifth plate his Majesty usually mixed portions of the
four varieties he had eaten, and appeared to enjoy this singular culinary
combination."
Dumas' reputation as an epicure must have been formed early; he describes
in his "Mémoires" how, on a certain occasion, when he had first become
installed in Paris, he met a gentleman, Charles Nodier, in the stalls of
the Porte St. Martin, who was reading a well-worn Elzevir entitled "La
Pastissier Française." He says, "I address him.... 'Pardon my
impertinence, but are you very fond of eggs?' 'Why so?' 'That book you are
reading, does it not give recipes for cooking eggs in sixty different
ways?' 'It does.' 'If I could but procure a copy.' 'But this is an
Elzevir,' says my neighbour."
The Parisian is without a rival as an epicure and a _gastronome_, and he
associates no stigma with the epithet. In Anglo-Saxon lands the reverse is
the case, though why it is hard to see.
"Frog-legs" came to be a tidbit in the _tables d'hôte_ of New York and
London many years ago, but sympathy has been withheld from the luscious
_escargot_. There be those fearless individuals who by reason of the
_entente cordiale_ have tasted of him and found him good, but learning
that in the cookshops of Paris they have at last learned to fabricate them
to equal the native grown article of Bourgogne, have tabooed them once for
all, and threaten to withdraw their liking for that other succulent
dainty, the frog.
At any rate, the schoolboy idea that the Parisian's staple fare is snails
and frogs is quite exploded, and small wonder it is that Anglo-Saxon
palates never became wholly inured to them. But what about England's
peculiar dishes? Marrow-bones and stewed eels, for instance?
* * * * *
Dumas' familiarity with the good things of the table is nowhere more
strongly advanced than in the opening chapter of "The Queen's Necklace,"
wherein the author recounts the incident of "the nobleman and his _maître
d'hôtel_."
The scene was laid in 1784, and runs as follows:
"The marshal turned toward his _maître d'hôtel_, and said, 'Sir, I
suppose you have prepared me a good dinner?'
"'Certainly, your Grace.'
"'You have the list of my guests?'
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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