The Desert of Altar lies there. From the Line south to the Yaqui
River and from the Gulf of California, once called the Sea of Cortez,
eastward to the Sierra Madre:--here is the terra incognita of Sonora;
here is the dominion of thirst. A territory large as New England and
with a population smaller than the average New England mill town. A
vast graveyard of vanished peoples, who left behind them mountains
terraced with fortifications laid in unbroken breastworks of porphyry
and rocks pictured with their annals of life and death. Rain comes only
with occasional summer thunder storms up from the Gulf, storms which
wake dead rivers into furious flood. So precious is this water from the
sky that the primitive peoples weave mystic rain symbols into their
basketry for a fetish, and their songs are all of thunderheads and
croaking frogs.
Here in the Desert of Altar the impossible becomes commonplace. A man
caught in a river bed by the spearhead of a freshet drowns in sand made
mud and irresistibly rushing. Cattle drink no water for months on end
but are sustained by munching cactus whose spines can penetrate sole
leather. In the furnace heat of summer furious rain storms occur in the
higher air but the moisture is sucked up by the sun before it touches
earth. Gold lies scattered on the surface of the desert and water must
be mined. The desert kind slay after the manner of the ages but declare
a truce at the waterhole. Death of all life is ever-present, yet grant
so much as a permanent trickle of the life-giving fluid and the dust is
covered with a glory of green.
For its devotees the desert holds mysteries potent beyond comprehension
of folk in a softer land. The venturing padres of an elder day called
it the Hand of God; they walked in the hand of God and were not afraid.
Divinity, force, original cause--whatever may be your term for that
power which jewels the grass with dew and swings the suns in their
courses--this is very close in the desert. In great cities man has
driven the Presence far from him by his silly rackets of steam and
electricity, by his farcical reproductions of cliffs and pinnacles. In
the Desert of Altar he walks in silence and with God. The very air is
kinetic with the energy that brought forth life on a cooled planet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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