Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
_Variations in Resist Work._—The resist method has been discovered in
many parts of the world, and has been carried out in many ways. In
Java, for instance, a beautiful art was developed known as Batik, to
be described later, in more detail. These people used, as a resisting
medium, molten beeswax, which could be poured or painted on to the
cloth wherever desired, and, according to whether it was applied hot
or only just warm enough to be liquid, would protect the material
covered, either wholly or partially, against the action of dyestuffs
in a cold bath.
Less elaborate, but still very interesting processes are reported
from many other quarters. As will be described in the next chapter
the Japanese have long used a resist paste, to make white patterns
against dark backgrounds with their stencils. In some of the Pacific
Islands natives have learnt to make patterns by pressing pieces
of cloth tightly between shells, as for instance the two halves
of a clam shell, and then dyeing or staining around them. Other
tribes learnt the trick of tying or sewing flat thin pieces of
wood together, tightly compressing the cloth between them and thus
preventing the dyestuff from reaching those parts of the goods when
dyed later.
But the most common process, and one which is not only the simplest
and easiest to carry out, but also offers to the skilful dyer an
almost unlimited range of interesting and effective results, in color
and design, is the so-called “Tied and Dyed Work.”
TIED AND DYED WORK
In this process, Tied and Dyed Work, the pattern is made by tying
string or cord, more or less tightly, around certain selected
portions of the material. When the goods, thus treated, are
subsequently dyed, these tied portions will be kept from the action
of the dyestuff, and after the operation is finished and the strings
cut or untied, they will be lighter in color than the adjacent parts
of the fabric.
This process has been known and widely used in many different parts
of the world. Some interesting examples of it are found among the
textiles from the so-called Inca graves, in Peru and Bolivia, dating
from before the Spanish conquest in the sixteenth century (see Fig.
2). Some extremely interesting specimens of tied work can be seen in
the Philippine collection in the New York Museum of Natural History,
brought from the Bagobo tribe in Mindanao (see Fig. 5). While
perhaps the most extraordinary development of this process can be
found in the so-called chundries or chunaries, imported from Central
Hindustan, and sold by traders in Eastern goods and textiles at very
moderate prices.
[Illustration: FIG. 3—SHIKAR CHUNDRI, FROM RAJPUTANA, WITH KNOTS
STILL UNTIED]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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