Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
=Chundries.=—These are chiefly manufactured in the native State
of Kotah, in Rajputana, and have been produced there from time
immemorial, for use as clothing and hangings. Those that are imported
to this country (see Figs. 3 and 4) are generally made of extremely
thin, flimsy muslin, most elaborately decorated in three or four
colors, with patterns made up of an infinite number of small round
or rectangular rings of white or light colors, against a darker
background. They can be obtained in the same condition that they
left the dyer’s hands, folded tightly together, colored red or brown
or black from the final dye-bath, and covered over with hundreds of
little hard knots or lumps. These, on examination, prove to be the
tied places, each tied by hand, by winding round and round the base
of the projecting loop of cloth, a very fine thread, closely laid and
knotted extremely firm and tight.
When unwound, which must be done with much care on account of the
thin, fragile nature of the cloth, the knotted portions often show
most beautiful and interesting designs—done in different colors, put
on before tying, and protected from the final bath by the close tight
layer of thread. Among the most interesting of them are the so-called
“Shikar” chundries, where the design, repeated over and over again,
illustrates some hunting scene, as, for instance, a tiger hunt,
with the animal springing at a man armed with a sword, and a horse
or elephant with howdah. When fully opened one of these chundries
makes a strip of cloth some five or six yards long, and in Rajputana
is used as the full-dress costume of a young lady of fashion, being
folded round and round the body and over the head in most graceful
and charming lines.
On studying one of these chundries one is struck by the immense
amount of labor expended in the tying process. The knots which form
the pattern make, frequently, as many as twenty-five or thirty to
the running inch, and each one is tied so tightly around the cloth,
folded so as to form four thicknesses, and drawn or pressed out
into loops, that it completely protects the part it covers from the
dyestuff, only the tip of the loop remaining exposed. Hence, when
it is untied, there results a small circular or rectangular ring
not over three-quarters of an inch in diameter. To obtain a surface
around which the string can be thus tightly tied, the folded cloth
is evidently pressed out from the back by a thin pin or spike (the
effect can be produced by tying a thin piece of cloth tightly around
a wooden toothpick) around which the thread can be tightly drawn and
knotted, and which usually is left in during the dyeing process and
taken out afterwards.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account