Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
Miss Benedict, who was the first white person to enter the Bagobo
country and study and report on their handicrafts, states that the
patterns are made in a curious manner. The pattern is first outlined
upon the cloth by a series of basting stitches, the intersection of
two stitches being the mark for the centre of one of the tied places.
Then the operator, seated, puts over her big toe a ring attached to
a line some three feet long, on the end of which is a simple hook
made from a bent and sharpened piece of copper or brass wire. Holding
the cloth in one hand, she then fastens the hook into one of the
marked places, pulls the part out with her foot, and ties up the loop
thus formed, rapidly and tightly, with waxed thread. This she winds
round and round the loop, beginning with the bottom first, and knots
it tight, using the free hand, assisted, except with very expert
workers, with the thumb and forefinger of the other.
Specimens of textiles thus tied, and not yet dyed or opened, and also
of the toe-ring, line, and hook used in the process, can be seen at
the Museum, along with a great variety of beautiful specimens of the
finished work.
[Illustration: FIG. 5—BAGOBO HEADDRESS FROM THE ISLAND OF MINDANAO]
It is rare that, in our present surroundings, any craftsman can spare
the time and patience to copy the elaborate patterns made in these
ways by the Eastern dyers. But equally beautiful and interesting
results can be produced with very little expenditure of time and
labor, by the skilful dyer, who knows something of the fundamental
principles of design and can use his dyes so as to get soft and
beautiful as well as permanent color effects. It is impossible, in
a work like this, to do more than suggest some of the many ways
in which this process can be used. The rest depends entirely upon
practice—and more can be learned about its possibilities in a couple
of hours’ work with muslin or cheesecloth, and a ball of twine or
tape, in connection with a dye-pot of a good Sulphur dye, than by
weeks of listening or reading about it.
VARIETIES OF TIED WORK
=Tied on Itself.=—Interesting effects may often be produced on long
pieces of cloth, scarfs, and the like, by folding them over and
tying them into knots at one or two selected places, before dyeing.
Fig. 6 shows an example of this, (a) Tied and ready for dyeing;
(b) Dyed and opened out. This when worked out in different colors,
dyeing first, with some light color, then tying and dyeing with
another color, or else coloring the tied and dyed piece with a second
light bath of another color, gives very pleasant results as applied
to draperies—as, for instance, simple costumes for pageants and
out-of-doors plays. It is, however, almost, if not quite, impossible
to obtain definite designs in this way, and it is hardly possible to
duplicate results. But occasionally the process is useful.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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