Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
The patterns are so elaborate, and yet are repeated over and over
again, on the same chundries, with such regularity, that it is
probable that some simple apparatus is used to press out the cloth
in exactly the proper places. This could be done by using a little
frame with holes in it, into which pins of wood or ivory could be
set, like the markers in a cribbage board, for instance, forming
definite figures on which piece after piece of cloth could be placed
and pressed out into shape.
[Illustration: FIG. 4—SAME CHUNDRI AS IN FIG. 3, UNTIED AND SHAKEN
OUT]
The most interesting thing, after all, about these extraordinarily
elaborate pieces of handicraft work is the fact that this vast amount
of time and labor is expended upon such poor materials. The muslin
of which they are made is so thin and poor that considerable pains
must be taken in opening them, to prevent their tearing from
the strain of pulling off the knots of fine thread. Then, too, the
colors as a rule not only are fugitive to sunlight, but are easily
affected by washing. Two minutes scrubbing in hot soapsuds will
almost completely efface the pattern and color from some of the
most elaborate and beautiful of them all. And this is not, as is
claimed frequently by modern writers upon Eastern handicrafts, due
to the introduction of cheap and fugitive “aniline” dyestuffs. The
dyes, used for generations by the Rajput craftsmen, for their most
elaborate chundries, were principally tumeric, safflower, and other
inferior vegetable colors, applied so loosely as to be merely stains
rather than dyes—and it would be hard to get modern dyestuffs which,
applied with any care, would be as fugitive as those commonly used
for the very best examples of these beautiful textiles.
=Tied Work in the Philippines.=—Of different quality is the work of
the Bagobo tribe in Mindanao, interesting specimens of which are
to be seen in the Philippine collection of the New York Museum of
Natural History. As shown in Fig. 5, a headdress belonging to Miss
Laura Benedict, the work is not unlike that done by the ancient
Peruvians, and the patterns, although often exceedingly complex, are
invariably geometrical, and do not approach in variety or in interest
those from India. The coloring, too, is far simpler—practically all
the examples showing light patterns on a dull purplish background.
But the dyeing is most carefully and thoroughly made—taking about
thirty days to complete, dyeing each night and washing thoroughly
each morning during all that time, until the final product is
exceedingly permanent to both light and washing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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