Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
It was discovered and used by the Spaniards early in the sixteenth
century, and in Queen Elizabeth’s reign was introduced into England,
much against the wishes of the older school of dyers who furiously
denounced it as producing fugitive colors, and had its use prohibited
by Act of Parliament. It was over a hundred years before the real
value of the dyestuff was appreciated, and this law was repealed.
The operation of extracting the coloring matter from the wood
itself, of which it forms only some three per cent. by weight, is
a troublesome and delicate one. The logs are chipped or rasped
into fine pieces, then moistened and piled in heaps and the color
developed by a process of fermentation. Accordingly, extracts
of logwood have been put on the market by various large firms,
especially of late years, and, while the use of the wood itself by
dyers has for the most part been abandoned, these extracts are widely
used for dyeing blacks upon silk, in spite of there now being many
excellent acid blacks.
The dyeing process, too, is rather complicated, for the goods must
be carefully mordanted before dyeing, with salts of iron, chromium,
or tin. For this reason wool is rarely dyed with logwood. It is,
however, still used for silk dyeing, partly because it gives very
full, deep, permanent shades of black, but principally because, by
using one mordant after another before dyeing, it is possible to
increase enormously the weight of the dyed silk, at very moderate
expense.
_Turkey Red._—The use of madder which, as before mentioned, was
probably known to the ancients, was greatly developed during the
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, owing to the introduction from
the near East of the so-called Turkey red process for obtaining, upon
cotton and wool, very fast and very brilliant shades of scarlet.
The process took some three months, and consisted of an elaborate
series of mordanting operations, before the dyeing proper began. The
goods were first soaked in a bath of some fatty material, such as
milk or, later, rancid olive oil, and then dried carefully. After
this they were soaked in a bath of alum and then in limewater, or a
chalk bath—and these operations were repeated over and over, with
various manipulations in between.
Finally, the mordanted material was dyed by boiling it in a bath
containing the finely-ground madder root, and then “brightened” by
washing out, in a boiling soap bath, all the loose color and the
unfixed mordant. This process was repeated until the proper shade was
reached.
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