The Dye-bath—The Dyeing Method—The Finishing Process—Dry and Wet Starching—Dyeing in the Starch—Black Dyeing of Feathers— Painting Feathers. CHAPTER X—LEATHER AND LEATHER DYEING 141 History—Preparation of Leather—Oil, Mineral and Bark Tanning— Dyeing, Staining and Finishing Leather. CHAPTER XI—SILK I 156 History, Origin and Varieties of Silk—Preparing Silk for Dyeing— Piece Dyeing—Skein Dyeing—Dyeing Wild Silks. CHAPTER XII—SILK II 168 Black Dyeing of Silk—Coal-Tar Colors—Logwood—Weighting of Silk— Properties and Tests for Weighted Silk—Dyeing Silk with Colors Fast to Washing. CHAPTER XIII—IMITATION AND ARTIFICIAL SILK 181 History, Preparation and Properties of Mercerized Cotton—History, Preparation and Properties of Artificial Silk—Precautions to be Taken in Dyeing and Finishing. CHAPTER XIV—TIED AND DYED WORK 192 As Used in South America, India, Philippines and U.S.—Variations in Tying Process—How Dyed—Tied and Discharged Work. CHAPTER XV—STENCILS AND STENCILLING 211 Japanese Practice—U.S. Practice—Knives, Brushes, Paper, etc.— Colors for Leather, Silk, and Cotton—Stencilling with Aniline Black Paste. CHAPTER XVI—RESIST AND DISCHARGE STENCILLING 228 Japanese Practice—Resist Paste and the Sulphur Colors—Discharge Stencilling with Bleaching Powder and Hydrosulphite. CHAPTER XVII—BATIK OR WAX RESIST 241 Javanese Practice—Modern Practice and Apparatus—Dyeing of Batiked Goods—Use of Batik Process on Cotton, Linen, Silk, Leather, Wood, Bone, etc. CHAPTER XVIII—THE INFLUENCE OF THE WAR UPON THE DYESTUFF INDUSTRY 260 Rise of the German Dyestuff Monopoly—Ruin of the English Dyestuff Industry—Dyestuff Industry in the United States—Changed Conditions Due to the War—Lists of Best Dyestuffs. THE ILLUSTRATIONS PLATES IN COLOR PLATE I Indigo dyed batik from Madras _Frontispiece_ FACING PAGE II Japanese towelling, showing impression of fresh damp leaves 26 III Same towelling after immersion in iron spring 30 IV (_a_) Example of tied and dyed work } 210 (_b_) Example of tied and discharged work } V Japanese towelling stencilled in resist and dyed by immersion in iron spring 230 ILLUSTRATIONS IN HALF-TONE FIG. 1 Shellfish used by the ancients for Tyrian purple 12 Sir W. H. Perkin 42 2 Tied and dyed headdress from an Inca tomb in Peru 192 3 Shikar chundri, from Rajputana, with knots still untied 196