Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
For three and a half to four pounds of cotton rags, such as are used
in making rag carpets, three and one-half gallon pots are about the
right size. This amount of material will be about enough for the
filling for one rug about 6×4 feet, woven on a hand loom.
_Heating Devices._—Work may be done over any flat-topped stove that
burns wood or coal; gas is, of course, an advantage and so is an oil
stove, as with these the heat may be regulated very exactly and much
time saved. For actual work, a stove with space for four or five pots
is the most convenient type to use.
There should always be one large pot set aside for heating water,
another for boiling out the raw goods, and still a third for boiling
out and brightening the finished materials with soap, when very fast
colors are used on cotton or linen; and each of these pots should be
reserved for its special purpose and _not used_ for dyeing. This will
avoid the danger of staining the goods.
The top of a kitchen range will do for heating, but whenever
possible, it is best to have a separate stove, so placed that the top
of it will not be more than about twenty-four inches from the ground
or floor. This enables the operator to look down into the dye-pot
and so avoid strain, and the consequent excessive fatigue while
stirring the goods.
_Stirring Rods._—While the material is being dyed, it should be kept
in constant motion. When working with small amounts of material, or
with goods such as straw, raffia, muslin, or silk in skeins, which
are delicate and easily spoiled, it is far more satisfactory in every
way to use heavy glass rods for stirring. These are rather expensive.
They are about fifteen inches in length and well rounded at the ends.
If carefully handled and thoroughly washed, they are always clean
and smooth. Care must, of course, be exercised in their use, as
sudden variations of heat and cold may cause them to crack or chip,
and lifting or stirring large quantities of heavy materials—anything
above five pounds—is liable to break them. In these cases, it is
best to use wooden dye-sticks. Broomsticks or dowel sticks, cut into
two-foot lengths, with the ends rounded carefully by whittling with
a sharp penknife, are excellent substitutes. For careful work it is
necessary to have several sets of wooden dye-sticks—two for each main
color at least—and these must be carefully washed each time after
using, or they will stain cloth that is being dyed light shades. They
are bound to get soft and rotten before very long, from the action of
the alkali in the dye-baths, but they are easily replaced.
Good rubber gloves are extremely useful while dyeing, to protect the
hands not only from being stained and discolored by the dyes, but
also from the action of the chemicals—especially while dyeing with
indigo and other dyes wherein the caustic alkalies are employed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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