Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
But for craftsmen and their like, the amateur dyers as opposed to
the regular professionals, the required information is not easy to
obtain. Their leaders and teachers, as a rule, profess a scorn of
the wonderful discoveries which, in the last half century, have
revolutionized the art of dyeing more, perhaps, than any other branch
of handicraft. And the dyeing chemists and writers have devoted
themselves almost exclusively to the far larger and more important
and more profitable field of commercial or professional dyeing, and
only here and there is one found who has given any special attention
to the dyes and processes needed by those working only on a small
scale.
For my own part, after teaching the principles and practice of modern
dyeing to class after class of chemical students at Columbia, my
attention was called to this particular branch of the subject by
finding, one spring, that some friends had started a hand-weaving
industry at a settlement house in which I was interested, but had
not made any arrangement for a dyehouse at the same time. This was a
serious omission because it is almost impossible to buy in the market
raw materials for hand-woven rugs, table-covers, and the like, that
are dyed just the right shade and, at the same time, are fast to both
light and washing; and, unless this last is guaranteed, there is
little or no excuse for charging the large prices necessary to pay
for the extra expense of the hand labor.
Wishing, therefore, to help out my friends, I offered to assist as
far as possible in this part of the work. That summer was spent on
the St. Lawrence, where it was possible to study some of the textile
work of the French _habitants_ whose dyeing processes, designs, and
looms had descended from mother to daughter since the old Colonial
days; and in the autumn I fitted up a little dyehouse and started
with a small but intelligent class of neighbors who were working at
the looms.
Of course, it was foolish to attempt to teach them the scientific
chemical formulæ used by my students uptown. The processes must
be short and simple—must give the desired shades on cotton, linen,
wool, and silk in the course of an hour or an hour and a half at
the outside, counting from the time when the class was called to
order. And the colors must be absolutely fast to light, and, wherever
possible, to washing also.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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