Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
It should be remembered, in this connection, that the comparative
fastness to light depends largely (a) upon the materials to be dyed,
and (b) upon the depth and shade of color used in the test. For
instance, if a skein of heavy cotton yarn, and one of very fine,
brilliant, artificial silk are dyed the same color, and exposed to
light under the same conditions, the cotton skein will hold its
color longer than the silk. The latter, being semi-transparent,
allows the sunlight to pierce it through and through, while the more
opaque cotton gives some distinct protection to the color that has
penetrated beneath the surface. So, too, a dark shade of any given
color will stand the light much better than a very light or delicate
shade, for the same general reason. The color beneath the surface is
protected from the direct action of the sun’s rays by the surface
color.
_Fastness to Washing._—The test for washing-fastness is made somewhat
differently. A skein dyed a full shade with the color is twisted up
with two white skeins, one of wool and the other of cotton, and
the three are thoroughly scoured for ten minutes in a strong bath
of good quality laundry soap, heated to 140°F. This temperature is
uncomfortably hot for the hands and yet is well below the boiling
point. A _fast_ color is one where, with this treatment, neither the
soap liquor nor either one of the skeins becomes colored.
If the soap liquor is colored but neither one of the skeins, the dye
is called _fairly fast_.
If the soap bath is tinged, and one or the other of the skeins
becomes colored at the same time, the dye is considered _not fast_.
It must, however, be borne in mind that before making this
washing-test, all excess of dye-liquor must first be removed by
thorough rinsing. And it should be remembered that even the fastest
of the Salt colors, as well as of the Acid and Basic colors described
later, when applied directly to the fibre, without mordanting or
after-treating, are never as fast to washing as those where the
dyestuff is fixed or developed in an insoluble form in the fibre,
by the action of the air, as are the Sulphur and Vat colors—or
by the action of mordants, as with the Alizarine colors—or by
after-treatment with certain special chemicals, as with the Salt
colors in the process described below. All dyes can, sooner or later,
be dissociated from the fibres to which they are attached. But if
they are in an insoluble condition they drop off in the form of a
powder, and are washed clean off, and leave sharp, clear outlines
on the dyed goods. If, however, they have gone on in solution
they will go off in solution, and are liable to _bleed_, and stain
light-colored fibres near them.
The earlier dyestuffs of this class were deservedly criticised as
being, even when carefully applied, much given to bleeding, and also
distinctly fugitive to the action of sunlight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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