Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
There has been so much said and written about the beauty and value
of the old-fashioned dyestuffs and dyeing processes and their
superiority to the modern coloring matters, that many well-meaning
people of artistic tastes have never ceased to deplore the discovery
and introduction of the so-called aniline or coal-tar dyes, and to
regard them as a serious detriment to the art of dyeing.
Some, indeed, have gone so far as to decry the discoveries not
only of the last fifty years, but also of the last nineteen or
twenty centuries. These quote with approval the great John Ruskin,
founder and original leader of the whole Arts and Crafts movement in
England, if not in the world, as having said, “There has been nothing
discovered of the slightest interest in the tinctorial art” (the art
of dyeing) “since the days of the ancient Greeks and Romans.”
To suppose for an instant that this important and highly specialized
art has not advanced during nearly two thousand years is, on the
face of it, absurd. A very little knowledge of dyestuffs forces
recognition of the fact that many of the very best, fastest, and most
beautiful of the dyes of our ancestors—such as cochineal, with which
they dyed practically all of their fast pinks and scarlets; logwood,
with which silk as well as wool was, and is still dyed black; fustic,
which was used for fast yellows on wool and cotton, and several
others—were natives of America, and therefore only known to the world
at large since the seventeenth century.
Indeed, as we shall see, the art of dyeing, based as it is on
chemical processes, discovered one by one, but never properly
explained or understood until the last sixty or seventy years, is,
perhaps, the one art above all others in which not only the ancient
world, but the world of comparatively a few years ago, was very
distinctly inferior to that of the present day.
In drawing, sculpture, painting, architecture, ceramics,
wood-carving, lacemaking, metal working, and almost every other art
that can be mentioned, the craftsman of the Middle Ages, if not
indeed of ancient Rome or Greece, could still hold his place against
modern competitors. Even in such a modern art as book printing, the
lover of books will claim, with considerable reason, that no more
beautiful or more nearly perfect specimen of the printer’s art has
ever been produced than the Gutenberg Bible, the first product of the
European printing press.
The art of dyeing, however, has been changing and developing so much
from century to century, that, even before the wonderful discoveries
of the last fifty years, the effects produced by any one generation
of dyers would have been totally impossible for their ancestors of a
few generations before them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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