Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
When using these Acid dyes side by side with the Basic colors, it
will be noticed that the latter, as a rule, are far more powerful,
and color the leather much more rapidly than the Acid dyes.
Accordingly for _staining_ leather the Basic dyes are the most
satisfactory. On the other hand in _dyeing_ leather, where the
dye-liquor is allowed to act longer on the goods, the Acid colors are
more valuable, not only because they are fast to light, but also
because they will penetrate more deeply and more evenly.
=Finishing Leather.=—After coloring the leather it is necessary to
finish it carefully, to get a smooth surface and to protect it from
injury by rubbing or moisture. Some workers simply let the leather
dry and then rub down the surface (without using any wax or oil)
with the finger or the palm of the hands. Usually the grain or hair
side of the leather is rubbed down with a little wax, the white or
yellow wax, used largely as a finishing polish for tan shoes, being
frequently employed for this purpose. It can be readily obtained from
almost any good shoe store or, if desired, can be made by mixing
together equal quantities of beeswax and carnauba wax in a molten
condition, and thinning the mixture with a little turpentine.
A recipe used with success by many leather workers calls for a
mixture of beeswax, turpentine, and neatsfoot oil. The wax is
carefully melted, mixed with a small amount of turpentine, and then
enough oil is stirred in to make it soft. When used upon embossed or
figured leather this wax is never applied directly, but is placed
inside a little bag of soft muslin, and rubbed on and into the
leather with a circular motion—the palm of the hand being often used
to finish the waxed surface.
=Bronze Effects.=—An interesting point in connection with the use of
the Basic dyes, and some of the Acid dyes, too, for staining leather
is that, when applied in a strong solution, as is very likely to be
the case when one is trying to get dark shades with an application
of the brush or pad, they quite frequently, on drying, show a very
marked metallic lustre. This is due to the formation of minute,
bright-colored crystals, which reflect the light, thus imparting to
the fabric colors which have nothing to do with the shade produced by
the dyestuff itself. Thus, Cyanole FF, _Cassella_, when dissolved, or
when dyed on leather or any other material, gives a rather greenish
shade of blue. But it gives a very brilliant old gold effect, almost
as bright as gold leaf, when applied in a strong solution and allowed
to dry quickly.
When this effect is not desired it can be avoided by building up
the dark shades by successive applications of weak solution, and
by rubbing down the little crystals with, if necessary, a little
moisture, whenever they appear to be forming.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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