Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
With regard to the consumption, it was estimated that in 1907 Europe
used some twenty-five million pounds, and the United States fifteen
million pounds of raw silk, which, at an average price of nearly
$5.50 per pound, amounted to over two hundred and eighteen million
dollars.
=Origin and Varieties of Silk.=—Silk has been defined as a “smooth,
lustrous, elastic fibre of small diameter and of animal origin.” As
is well known, ordinary commercial silk is secreted or “spun” by the
silkworm, the caterpillar form of a moth known as _Bombyx Mori_, the
moth of the mulberry tree. These silkworms have been cultivated for
thousands of years, but there exist in different parts of the world,
notably in India and Japan, wild or uncultivated silkworms, derived
from nearly related, but not identical, families of moths, and whose
silk is collected in the forests by the natives, forming what is
known in commerce as wild or tussah silk.
Of course, the silk from silkworms, cultivated and wild, is the
only one yet produced on a commercial scale. But silk can also be
obtained from other animals, notably from spiders and from a peculiar
shellfish, the pinna, found in the waters of the Mediterranean.
Silk from the silkworm can be divided into two classes, according to
whether the silkworms are the cultivated or the wild varieties. In
each case the silk is produced by the caterpillar spinning a covering
or shroud, the so-called cocoon, around itself to protect it when in
the form of the chrysalis or pupa, awaiting its transformation into
the moth.
The ordinary or cultivated silk of commerce comes from worms fed
almost exclusively upon the leaves of the white mulberry tree, and
cannot be produced successfully without that particular plant.
The somewhat similar worms that produce the wild or tussah silks
live upon the leaves of the oak, elm, ailanthus, castor oil plant,
and others. While the two varieties resemble each other greatly
in their chemical properties, they can always be distinguished,
because cultivated silk is much more lustrous than the other, but is
decidedly less strong.
_Tussah Silk, Pongee, Shantung._—The tussah silks, when woven, are
commonly known under the general name of pongee. Of late years
this name has been applied to imitation goods possessing the
characteristic dull color, and even the feel of the real article,
but far less strong. These are generally made out of spun silk,
derived from “Shappe,” i.e., the by-products of the silk industry,
spoilt cocoons, waste from the spinning machines and the dyehouses,
and the like—silk, to be sure, but silk of very inferior quality.
Accordingly, it is now customary to call real pongee by the name
Shantung, after the Chinese province from which much of the wild silk
is brought.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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