Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
_Stripping or Degumming._—This thrown silk must then be prepared
for the dyeing by getting rid of the gum, which not only makes the
silk stiff and destroys its lustre, but which also would interfere
with the smooth, even dyeing of the fibres themselves. For this
purpose the silk, in skeins, is thoroughly washed, or “stripped,” by
soaking in two or three successive baths of hot, strong, neutral soap
solutions. In the dyehouses Castile (olive oil) soap is invariably
used for this purpose, and, while made of cheap grades of olive
oil, it is always, in good dyehouses, of excellent quality, for the
presence of even minute amounts of free alkali in these baths is
liable to greatly injure and “tender” the silk.
_Boiled-off Liquor._—The soap solution from these stripping baths
is not thrown away in the dyehouses, but is carefully stored as a
valuable reagent. Under the name of “boiled-off liquor” it is almost
exclusively used, by the dyers, for color dyeing. It is not often
used in black dyeing, and therefore, in a dyehouse, the presence of
a large and well-patronized black department is considered of great
importance as providing the color dyer with an abundant supply of
boiled-off liquor.
The stripped or degummed silk is now ready for weaving directly, the
resulting white cloth being sometimes finished and sold as such, and
sometimes “dyed in the piece.” In most cases, however, the stripped
silk is weighted, dyed, and finished “in the skeins,” before weaving.
=Piece Dyeing.=—In dyeing by the piece, the stripped silk is passed
through a weak acid bath, usually acetic, and then woven into goods
of the desired quality. These goods are then dyed in the piece by
being run through the dye-bath until they are of the proper shade.
The dye-bath (for colors) is made by stirring the proper quantity
of Acid dyestuffs into a hot bath of boiled-off liquor (the bath
in which the silk has been stripped), which is faintly acidified,
or “broken,” as the technical phrase goes, by the addition of some
sulphuric acid. This boiled-off liquor has the property of laying
the dyes on the silk evenly and thoroughly, and is better for that
purpose than any other medium. For amateur work, or where boiled-off
liquor cannot be obtained, very fair results can be obtained with a
strong bath of olive oil soap (Castile or Marseilles), “broken” with
weak acid, generally dilute sulphuric acid.
The term “breaking” the soap bath is very significant. The acid
should be added drop by drop to the frothing soap bath until the
bubbles disappear and a thin iridescent film of fatty acid rises to
the top of the liquid.
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