Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
After the piece goods are brought to the proper shade, they are
finished, usually by carefully rinsing in water to take away all
traces of free acid, then by passing through a cold soap bath, often
with a little olive oil emulsified in it, to increase the lustre;
finally, through a bath of weak organic acid, like acetic acid, to
develop the so-called “scroop” or “feel” of the silk. When silk
is washed in soap, or is dipped in even a weak bath of alkali, it
becomes soft and clammy to the touch, and has no “life” or “snap”
to it when dry. The passage through a bath of weak acid develops the
characteristic stiffness of the silk fibre, and causes it to give its
peculiar rustling sound when pressed.
=Skein Dyeing.=—When weighting or adulteration is not employed,
i.e., in the so-called “pure dye” process, the dyeing of skein silk
resembles the piece dyeing described. The degummed silk is immersed
in a dye-bath containing the dyestuffs (Acid colors) dissolved in
boiled-off liquor, broken with dilute sulphuric acid. The bath
is heated nearly to the boiling point, and the silk turned in it
until the desired shade is produced. It is then taken out, washed
thoroughly in water to remove the last traces of acid, and then
brightened by passing through a soap bath with some oil, and later
through a bath of acetic acid to develop the “scroop.”
_Drying._—An important part of the process is the final drying and
finishing. The drying should be done slowly and carefully, and not
proceed too far, or the silk will be brittle. As is well known to
dyers, silk has the power of absorbing 25% or 30% of its weight
of water without becoming perceptibly damp to the hand, and this
moisture, when not carried too far, is of actual benefit to the
material, making it stronger and more elastic. This property is often
made use of by the honest (?) dyer when, in case some of the silk in
a lot has been spoiled by accident or carelessness, he makes up the
difference in weight by the liberal use of the watering pot.
_Finishing._—This process is perhaps the most difficult and
technical of all, for the value of the finished product depends
very largely on it, and it is almost impossible for an amateur
to accomplish it. The skeins, after drying, are hung on a heavy
polished wooden bar and, with a smooth wooden stick, are shaken out,
straightened, pulled, twisted, and worked until the fibres are all
parallel, the kinks taken out, any weak or injured portion cut out,
and the whole skein has acquired the proper amount of lustre.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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