Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
_Salt Colors._—Silk may also be dyed black with some of the good Salt
colors—but unless the dyer takes the trouble to after-treat the goods
by the troublesome process of diazotizing and developing, the results
are no better, if indeed as good as those resulting from the Acid
blacks mentioned above.
_Sulphur Colors._—These have very often been tried on silk without
much success, because for dark colors like blacks, it is necessary to
boil the goods in the dye-liquor for some time and to have the latter
very concentrated. Unfortunately the sodium sulphide, necessary for
dissolving the sulphur dyes, is a powerful alkali, and hence readily
attacks an animal fibre, like silk. It is possible, however, by the
abundant use of glucose (Karo syrup, etc.) to greatly protect the
silk from this tendering action. It is also possible for a dyer
fairly well trained in chemistry, to very carefully neutralize the
dye-bath by the cautious addition of acid sodium sulphite, until
the dye-liquor is no longer alkaline and yet the dyestuff is not
precipitated. This process, however, is hardly fitted for an amateur,
and has not proved very successful even among the professionals.
_Logwood Blacks._—Nearly all professional dyers continue to use the
old vegetable dyestuff, logwood, about which some information was
given in the first chapter.
To dye with this it is customary to use one of the many good logwood
extracts on the market. Great care must be taken in the proper
mordanting of the silk before it goes into the bath. For this purpose
the silk is impregnated first with iron salts, and later with tannin,
and in some processes, with salts of chromium or of tin, before
entering the logwood bath. In all cases, therefore, silk dyed black
with logwood contains a certain amount, say 15% to 20% of its weight,
or 2-3 ounces to the pound, of foreign ingredients. When carefully
done this does not injure the material at all, and the “pure dyed”
logwood blacks are perfectly satisfactory both for shade, lustre, and
durability.
WEIGHTING OF SILK
This moderate increase of weight, however, which is hardly enough to
replace the weight of the gum lost in the stripping process, was far
from satisfying the demands of the manufacturer for a cheaper raw
material. And accordingly both dyer and dyeing chemist have exhausted
all their energies and skill in trying to increase this percentage
of cheap foreign matter in the finished silk, to the utmost limit of
what the market will stand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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