Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
If further weighting is desired, this treatment, first in tin
chloride and then in phosphate of soda, can be repeated three or
four up to five or even six times, increasing the weight with each
immersion. Then a bath is usually given of silicate of soda, which
adds a little weight, ½ to ¾ of an ounce, and, it is claimed,
benefits the lustre and strength of the goods. Then, after a final
washing, the silk is ready for the dye-bath.
The weighted goods are dyed, dried, and finished about the same
as with the “pure dye” process, and the proud dyer can rejoice at
returning to the honest manufacturer from 150 to 250 pounds of
finished silk for every 100 pounds of raw silk (containing, by the
way, 25 to 30 pounds of gum) which was sent in to the dyehouse! This
“tin-weighing” process is also applied to black dyeing, and enables
the black dyer to build up his weight with tin salts instead of
limiting him to iron, chromium, ferrocyanide of potash, tannin, and
logwood.
_Properties of Weighted Silk._—It is scarcely necessary to point out
that silk, weighted to the extreme limit, is hardly to be considered
as the most durable and trustworthy of fabrics, even when dyed by the
most expert workmen. And when carelessly prepared heavily weighted
silk is an abomination, liable to crack and wear away with the least
provocation.
It may be worth reminding some of my fair readers that the old
test of a silk taffeta, “so thick and stiff that it will stand of
itself,” is nowadays anything but a proof of good quality. One or two
manufacturers in this country a few years ago tried to revive the
almost forgotten art of making and selling pure-dyed goods, and one
trouble they experienced in disposing of their products, outside the
high price, was the criticism that their silk felt so light and thin.
_Prevalence of Weighted Silk._—At present it is almost impossible,
at least in New York, to buy pure-dyed heavy silks. The writer, at
any rate, has tried diligently, during the last year or two, to find
for some special experiments a piece of white taffeta which was not
markedly weighted. After visiting department stores and the very best
dry-goods stores in the city, at all of which he was informed that
no such material now existed, the best that could be obtained was
one make of silk where the organzine or warp was fairly pure, the
tram being well weighted. Light-weight Japanese and Chinese silks,
however, undyed or dyed in the piece, can still be procured with
little or no weighting.
_Tests for Weighted Silk._—This silk may be identified by a very
simple test. Pure-dyed silk, when dry, is easily inflammable. When
touched with a lighted match it catches fire at once, “carries the
flame” well, especially if in the form of thread; and, if followed
up with a flame, it will before long burn away completely, leaving
little or no ash or residue.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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