Earth Features and Their Meaning: An Introduction to Geology for the Student and the General ReaderHobbs, William Herbert
Science
Earth Features and Their Meaning: An Introduction to Geology for the Student and the General Reader
Hobbs, William Herbert
Geology; Physical geography
=The cut and built terrace on a steep shore of loose materials.=—In
materials which lack the coherence of firm rock, no vertical cliff can
form; for as fast as undermined by the waves the loose materials slide
down and assume a surface of practically constant slope—the “angle of
repose” of the materials (Fig. 257). The terrace below this sloping
cliff will not differ in shape from that cut upon a rocky shore; but
whenever the materials of the shore include disseminated blocks too
large for the waves to handle, they collect upon the terrace near where
they have been exhumed, thus forming what has been called a “bowlder
pavement” (Fig. 258).
[Illustration:
FIG. 258.—Sloping cliff and terrace with bowlder pavement exposed at
low tide upon the shore at Scituate, Massachusetts.]
The edge of the cut and built terrace is, as already mentioned,
maintained at the depth of wave base. If one will study the submerged
contours of any of our inland lakes, it will be found that these
basins are surrounded by a gently sloping marginal shelf,—the cut and
built terrace,—and that the depth of this shelf at its outer edge is
proportioned to the size of the lake. Upon Lake Mendota at Madison,
Wisconsin, the large storm waves have a length of about twenty feet,
which is the depth of the outer edge of the shore terraces (Fig. 267,
p. 242). The shelf surrounding the continents has, with few local
exceptions, a uniform depth of 100 fathoms, or about the wave base of
the heaviest storm waves.
=The work of the shore current.=—In describing the formation of
the built terrace, it was stated that the greater part of the rock
material quarried upon headlands by the waves is diverted from the
offshore terrace. This diversion is the work of the shore current
produced by the wave.
[Illustration: FIG. 259.—Map to show the nature of the shore current
and the forms which are molded by it.]
At but few places upon a shore will the storm waves beat
perpendicularly, and then for but short periods only. The broken wave,
as it crawls ever more slowly up the beach, carries the sand with it in
a sweeping curve, and by the time gravity has put a stop to its forward
movement, it is directed for a brief instant parallel to the shore.
Soon, however, the pull of gravity upon it has started the backward
journey in a more direct course down the slope of the terrace; and
here encountering the next succeeding breaker, a portion of the water
and the coarser sand particles with it are again carried forward for a
repetition of the zigzag journey. This many times interrupted movement
of the sand particles may be observed during a high wind upon any sandy
lee shore. The “set” of the water along the shore as a result of its
zigzag journeyings is described as the _shore current_ (Fig. 259),
and the effect upon sand distribution is the same as though a steady
current moved parallel to the shore in the direction of the average
trend of the moving particles.
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