Earth Features and Their Meaning: An Introduction to Geology for the Student and the General ReaderHobbs, William Herbert
Science
Earth Features and Their Meaning: An Introduction to Geology for the Student and the General Reader
Hobbs, William Herbert
Geology; Physical geography
=The sand beach.=—The first effect of the shore current is to deposit
some portion of the sand within the first slight recess upon the shore
in the lee of the cliff. The earlier deposits near the cliff gradually
force the shore current farther from the shore and so lay down a sand
selvage to the shore, which is shaped in the form of an arc or crescent
and known as a _beach_ (Fig. 259 and Fig. 260).
[Illustration: FIG. 260.—Crescent-shaped beach formed in the lee of
a headland. Santa Catalina Island, California (after a photograph by
Fairbanks).]
[Illustration: FIG. 261.—Cross section of a beach pebble.]
=The shingle beach.=—With heavy storms and an exceptional reach of the
waves, the shore currents are competent to move, not the sand alone,
but pebbles, the area of whose broader surface may be as great as the
palm of one’s hand. Such rock fragments are shaped by the continued
wear against their neighbors under the restless breakers, until they
have a lenticular or watch-shaped form (Fig. 261). Such beach pebbles
are described as _shingle_, and they are usually built up into distinct
ridges upon the shore, which, under the fury of the high breakers, may
be piled several feet above the level of quiet water (Fig. 262). Such
storm beaches have a gentle forward slope graded by the shore current,
but a steep backward slope on the angle of repose. Most storm beaches
have been largely shaped by the last great storm, such as comes only at
intervals of a number of years.
[Illustration:
FIG. 262.—Storm beach of coarse shingle about four feet in height
at the base of Burnt Bluff on the northeast shore of Green Bay, Lake
Michigan.]
=Bar, spit, and barrier.=—Wherever the shore upon which a beach is
building makes a sudden landward turn at the entrance to a bay, the
shore currents, by virtue of their inertia of motion, are unable longer
to follow the shore. The débris which they carry is thus transported
into deeper water in a direction corresponding to a continuation of
the shore just before the point of turning (see Fig. 259, p. 238).
The result is the formation of a _bar_, which rises to near the
water surface and is extended across the entrance to the bay through
continued growth at its end, after the manner of constructing a railway
embankment across a valley.
[Illustration: FIG. 263.—Spit of shingle on Au Train Island, Lake
Superior (after Gilbert).]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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