Earth Features and Their Meaning: An Introduction to Geology for the Student and the General ReaderHobbs, William Herbert
Science
Earth Features and Their Meaning: An Introduction to Geology for the Student and the General Reader
Hobbs, William Herbert
Geology; Physical geography
Over the deeper water near the bar the waves are at first not generally
halted and broken, as they are upon the shore, and so the bar does not
at once build itself to the surface, but remains an invisible bar to
navigation. From its shoreward end, however, the waves of even moderate
storms are broken, and the bar is there built above the water surface,
where it appears as a narrow cape of sand or shingle which gradually
thins in approaching its apex. This feature is the well-known _spit_
(Fig. 263) which, as it grows across the entrance to the bay, becomes a
_barrier_ or _barrier beach_ (Fig. 264).
The continuation of the visible in the usually invisible bar, is at the
time of high winds made strikingly apparent, for the wave base is below
the crest of the bar, and at such times its crescentic course beyond
the spit can be followed by the eye in a white arc of broken water.
[Illustration:
FIG. 264.—Barrier beach in front of a lagoon on Lake Mendota at
Madison, Wisconsin. The shallow lagoon behind the barrier is filling up
and is largely hidden in vegetation.]
The construction of a barrier across the entrance to a bay transforms
the latter into a separate body of water, a lagoon, within which
silting up and peat formation usually lead to an early extinction
(p. 429). The formation of barriers thus tends to straighten out
the irregularities of coast lines, and opens the way to a natural
enlargement of the land areas. While the coasts of the United Kingdom
of Great Britain have been losing some four thousand acres through wave
erosion, there has been a gain by growth in quiet lagoons which amounts
to nearly seven times that amount. As evidence of the straightening
of the shore line which results from this process, the coast of the
Carolinas or of Nantucket (Fig. 459) may serve for illustration.
=The land-tied island.=—We have seen that wave erosion operates to
separate small islands from the headlands, but the shore currents
counteract this loss to the continents by throwing out barriers which
join many separated islands to the mainland. Such land-tied islands are
a common feature on many rocky coasts, and upon the New England coast
they usually have been given the name of “neck.” The long arc of Lynn
Beach joins the former island of Nahant, through its smaller neighbor
Little Nahant, to the coast of Massachusetts. A similar land-tied
island is Marblehead Neck. The Rock of Gibraltar, formerly an island,
is now joined to Spain by the low beach known as the “neutral ground.”
The Spanish name, _tombola_, has sometimes been employed to describe an
island thus connected to the shore.
[Illustration: FIG. 265.—Cross section of a barrier beach with lagoon
in its rear.]
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