Another suggestion is that the waves are due to a sudden heaving up
of the bottom of the ocean. If this lifting took place slowly, then
the first result would be that the water situated over the centres of
disturbance would flow away radially in all directions from above the
area of disturbance.
If, however, the submarine upheaval took place with great rapidity, say
by the sudden evolution of a large volume of steam developed by the
entry of water into a volcanic vent, as the water was heaped above the
disturbed area, water might run in radially towards this spot.
Supposing a primary wave to be formed in the ocean by any such causes,
then the falling of this will cause a second wave to be formed,
existing as a ring round the first one. The combined action of the
first and second wave will form a third one, and so the disturbance,
starting from a point, will radiate in broadening circles. During the
up and down motion of these waves, the energy which is imparted to any
particle of water will, on account of the work which it has to do in
displacing its neighbours, by frictional resistance, gradually grow
less and less, until it finally dies away. The waves which are the
result of this motion will also grow less and less.
If a series of sea waves were produced by a single disturbance, we see
that these will be of unequal magnitude. Now, for small waves, the
velocity with which they travel depends upon the square root of their
lengths; but with large waves, like earthquake waves, the velocity
depends upon the square root of the depth of water, and these latter
travel more quickly than the former.
If, therefore, we have a series of disturbances of unequal magnitude
producing sea waves, which, from the series of shocks which have
been felt upon shores subsequently invaded by waves, seems in all
probability often to have been the case, it is not unlikely that the
waves of an early disturbance may be overtaken and interfered with by a
series which followed.
These considerations help us to understand the appearance of the
records on our tide gauges, and also the phenomena observed by those
who have recorded tidal waves as they swept inwards upon the land. For
instance, we understand the reason why sea waves, as observed at places
at different distances from the origin of a disturbance, should be of
different heights. We also see an explanation for the fact that small
waves should sometimes appear to be interpolated between large ones,
and that these should occur at varying intervals.
The fact that whenever a wave is produced, a certain quantity of water
must be drawn from the level which surrounds it, in order that it
should be formed, explains the phenomena that the sea is often observed
first to draw back. Out in the open ocean it is drawn from the hollow
between two waves. As has been pointed out by Darwin, it is like the
drawing of the water from the shore of a river by a passing steamer.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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