The difference in the height of waves, as observed at places lying
close to each other, is probably due to the configuration of the coast,
the interference of outlying islands, reefs, &c.—causes which would
produce similar effects in the height of tide.
As a wave approaches shallow water it gradually increases in height,
its front slope becomes steep, and its rear slope gentle, until finally
it topples over and breaks. This increasing in height of waves is
no doubt connected with the destruction of Talcahuano and Callao,
which are situated at the head of shallow bays. Valparaiso, which is
on the edge of deep water, has never been overwhelmed.[78] Another
case tending to produce anomalies in the character of waves would be
their reflection and mutual interference, the reflections due to the
configuration of the ocean bed and coast lines.
The complete phenomena which may accompany a violent submarine
disturbance are as follows:—
By the initial impulse of explosion or lifting of the ground, a ‘great
sea wave’ is generated, which travels shorewards with a velocity
dependent upon its size and the depth of the ocean. At the same
instant, a ‘sound wave’ may be produced in the air, which travels at a
quicker rate than the ‘great sea wave.’ A third wave which is produced,
is an ‘earth wave,’ which will reach the shore with a velocity
dependent on the intensity of the impulse and the elasticity of the
rocks through which it is propagated. This latter, which travels the
fastest, may carry on its back a small ‘forced sea wave.’ On reaching
the shore and passing inland, this ‘earth wave’ will cause a slight
recession of the water as the ‘forced sea wave’ slips from its back.
As these ‘forced sea waves’ travel they will give blows to ships
beneath which they may pass, being transmitted from the bottom of the
ocean to the bottom of the ships like sound waves in water. At the
time of small earthquakes, produced, for example, by the explosion of
small quantities of water entering volcanic fissures, or by the sudden
condensation of steam from such a fissure entering the ocean, aqueous
sound waves are produced, which cause the rattling and vibrating jars
so often noticed on board ships.
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