East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
I must now describe a spot, the name of which will probably be new to
all excepting close students of Balzac. The great novelist loved the
valley of the Loing almost as fondly as his native Touraine; and if
these pastoral scenes did not inspire a _chef d’oeuvre_, they have
thereby immensely gained in interest. “Ursule Mirouët,” of which I shall
have more to say further on, is not to be compared to such masterpieces
as “Eugénie Grandet.” But a leading incident of “Ursule Mirouët” occurs
at Bourron--a sufficient reason for recalling the story here.
The beauty of our village, like the beauty of French women, to quote
Michelet, “is made up of little nothings.” There are a hundred and
one pretty things to see but very few to describe. Who could wish it
otherwise? Little nothings of an engaging kind better agree with us
as daily fare than the seven wonders of the world. With forty thousand
acres of forest at our doors we do not want M. Mattel’s newly discovered
underground river within reach as well.
From our garden we yet look upon scenes not of every day. Those sweeps
of bluish-green foliage strikingly contrasted with the brilliant vine
remind us that we are in France, and in a region with most others having
its specialities. Asparagus, not literally but figuratively, nourishes
the entire population of Bourron. Everyone here is a market gardener on
his own account, and the cultivation of asparagus for the Paris markets
is a leading feature of local commerce.
There is no more graceful foliage than that of this plant, and
gratefully the eye rests upon these waves of delicate green under a
blazing, grape-ripening sky. Making gold-green lines between are vines,
a succession of asparagus beds and vineyards separating our village from
its better known and more populous neighbour, Marlotte. In the opposite
direction we see brown-roofed, white-walled houses surmounted by a
pretty little spire. This is Bourron. To reach it we pass a double row
of homesteads, rustic interiors of small farmer or market gardener,
the one, as our French neighbours say, more picturesque than the other.
Each, no matter how ill kept, is set off by an ornamental border,
zinnias, begonias, roses and petunias as obviously showing signs of care
and science. Oddly enough the finest display of flowers often adorns
the least tidy premises. And oddly enough, rather perhaps as we should
expect it, in not one, but in every respect, this French village is the
exact opposite of its English counterpart. In England every tenant of
a cottage pays rent, there, not an inhabitant, however poor, but sits
under his own vine and his own fig-tree. In England the farm-house faces
the road and the premises lie behind. Here manure-heap, granary and pig
styes open on the highway, the dwellings being at the back. In England
a man’s home, called his castle, is no more defended than the Bedouin’s
tent. Here at nightfall the small peasant proprietor is as securely
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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