East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
A drive of a few minutes had landed us in the heart of this little
Paradise, baths and Casino standing in the midst of park-like grounds.
Apparently Pougues, that is to say, the Pougues-les-Eaux of later
days, has been cut out of natural woodland, the Casino gardens and
its surroundings being rich in forest trees of superb growth and
great variety. The wealth of foliage gives this new fashionable little
watering-place an enticingly rural appearance, nor is the attraction
of water wholly wanting. To quote once more a most quotable, if little
read, poet:--
“Meantime, unnumbered glittering streamlets played,
And hurled everywhere their water’s sheen,
That, as they bickered through the sunny glade,
Though restless still, themselves a lulling murmur made.”
A pretty little lake, animated with swans, varies the woodland scenery,
and tropical birds in an aviary lend brilliant bits of colour. The
usual accessories of a health resort are, of course, here--reading room,
concert hall, theatre, and other attractions, rapidly turning the place
into a lesser Vichy. The number and magnificence of the hotels, the
villas and _cottages_, that have sprung up on every side, bespeak the
popularity of Pougues-les-Eaux, as it is now styled, the surname adding
more dignity than harmoniousness. One advantage Pougues possesses over
its rivals, is position. At Aix-les-Bains, Plombières, Salins, and how
many other inland spas, you are literally wedged in between shelving
hills. If you want to enjoy wide horizons, and anything like a breeze,
you must get well outside the town. Never in hot, dusty, crowded
cities have I felt so half-suffocated as at the two first named places.
Pougues, on the contrary, lies in a broad expanse of beautifully varied
woodland and champaign, no more appropriate site conceivable for the now
popular air-cure. “Pougues-les-Eaux, Cure d’Eau and Cure d’Air,” is
now its proud title, folks flocking hither, not only to imbibe its
delicious, ice-cold, sparkling waters, but to drink in its highly
nourishing air. The iron-gaseous waters resemble in properties those of
Spa and Vichy. From one to five tumblers are ordered a day, according
to the condition of the drinker, a little stroll between each dose being
advisable. With regard to the air-cure, visitors are reminded that at
Pougues they find the four kinds of walking exercise recommended by a
German specialist, namely, that on quite level ground; secondly, a
very gradual climb; thirdly, a somewhat steeper bit of up-hill; and,
fourthly, the really arduous ascent of Mont Givre. In order to entice
health-seekers, all kinds of gratifications await them on the summit,
restaurant, dairy, reading room, tennis court, and croquet ground, to
say nothing of a panorama almost unrivalled in eastern France. We have,
indeed, climbed the Eiffel Tower, in other words, are on a level with
that final stage from which floats the Tricolour. Looking east we behold
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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