East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
“Another time then!” had said the kind hostess of the barge at parting.
She seemed as sorry as ourselves that the little project she had mooted
so cordially could not be carried out.
The Loing canal joins the Seine at Saint Mammes, a few kilomètres lower
down, continuing its course of thirty kilomètres to Bleneau in the
Nièvre. Canal life in Eastern France is a characteristic feature, the
whole region being intersected by a network of waterways, those _chemins
qui marchent_, or walking roads as Michelet picturesquely calls them.
And strolling on the banks of the canal here you may be startled by
an astonishing sight, you see folks walking, or apparently walking, on
water. Standing bolt upright on a tiny raft, carefully maintaining their
balance, country people are towed from one side to the other.
These suburban and riverside quarters are full of charm. The soft reds
and browns of the houses, the old-world architecture and romantic sites,
tempt an artist at every turn. And all in love with a Venetian existence
may here find it nearer home.
A few villas let furnished during the summer months have little lawns
winding down to the water’s edge and a boat moored alongside. Thus their
happy inmates can spend hot, lazy days on the river.
Turning our backs on the canal, by way of ivy-mantled walls, ancient
mills and tumbledown houses, we reach the Porte du Pont or Gate of the
Bridge. With other towns of the period, Moret was fortified. The girdle
of walls is broken and dilapidated, whilst firm as when erected in the
fourteenth century still stand the city gates.
Of the two the Porte du Pont is the least imposing and ornamental, but
it possesses a horrifying interest. In an upper storey is preserved one
of those man-cages said to have been invented for the gratification of
Louis XI, that strange tyrant to whose ears were equally acceptable the
shrieks of his tortured victims and the apt repartee of ready-witted
subjects.
“How much do you earn a day?” he once asked a little scullion, as
incognito he entered the royal kitchen.
“By God’s grace as much as the King,” replied the lad; “I earn my bread
and he can do no more.”
So pleased was the King with this saying that it made the speaker’s
fortune.
We climb two flights of dark, narrow stone stairs reaching a bare
chamber having small apertures, enlargements of the mere slits formerly
admitting light and air. The man-cage occupies one corner. It is made of
stout oaken ribs strongly bound together with iron, its proportions just
allowing the captive to lie down at full length and take a turn of two
or three steps. De Commines tells us that the cage invented by Cardinal
Balue, and in which he languished for eleven years, was narrower still.
An average sized man could not stand therein upright.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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