East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
Within the last twenty-five years so many new lines of railway have been
opened in France that there is no longer any inducement--I am inclined
to say excuse--for keeping to the main road. Yet, strangely
enough, English tourists mostly ignore such opportunities. For one
fellow-countryman we meet on the route described here, hundreds are
encountered on the time-honoured roads running straight from Paris to
Switzerland. Quit Dijon by any other way and the English-speaking world
is lost sight of, perhaps more completely than anywhere else on the
civilised globe. Again and again it has happened to myself to be
regarded in rural France as a kind of curiosity, the first subject of
Queen Victoria ever met with; again and again I have spent days, nay
weeks, on French soil, the sole reminder of my native land being the
daily paper posted in London. It is now many years since I first visited
St. Jean de Losne, in company of a French acquaintance, a notary, both
of us being bound to a country-house on the Saône. At that time the
railway did not connect it with Dijon, and in brilliant September
weather we jogged along by diligence, a pleasant five hours’ journey
enough. My companion, a native of the Côte d’Or, seemed to know everyone
we passed on the way, whenever we stopped to change horses getting out
for a gossip with this friend and that he had taken the precaution to
provide himself with a huge loaf of bread, from which he hacked off
morsels for us both from time to time. As we had started at seven
o’clock in the morning, and got no déjeûner till past noon, the doles
were acceptable. The fellow-traveller of that first journey--alas! With
how many friends of the wine country!--has long since gone to his rest.
The second time I set forth alone, taking my seat in the slow--the very
slow--train running alongside the Canal de Bourgogne. On the central
platforms of the Dijon railway station, crowds of English and American
tourists were hurrying to their trains, bound respectively for Paris and
Geneva. No sooner was I fairly off, my fellow travellers being two or
three country-folks, than the conventionalities of travel had vanished.
Surroundings as well as scenery became entirely French.
The Burgundian character is very affable, and although people may
wonder what can be your errand in remote regions, they never show their
curiosity after disagreeable fashion. They are delighted to discover
that interest in France--artistic, economic, or industrial--has led you
thither, and will afford any assistance or information in their power.
They seem to regard the wayfaring Britisher as whimsical, that is all.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account