East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
A train that crawls has this advantage, we can see everything by the
way, villages, crops, and methods of cultivation. The landscape soon
changes. The familiar characteristics of the wine country disappear.
Instead of vine-clad hills, nurseries of young plants grafted on
American stocks, and vineyard after vineyard in rich maturity, we now
see hop gardens, colza fields, and wide pastures. Here and there we
obtain a glimpse of some walled-in farmhouse, recalling the granges of
our own Isle of Wight.
Alongside the railway runs the canal, that important waterway connecting
the Seine with the Saône; but the Saône itself, Mr. Hamerton’s favourite
river, is not seen till we reach our destination.
The little town of St. Jean de Losne, although unknown to English
readers, is one of the most historic of France. No other, indeed, boasts
of more honourable renown. As Jeanne d’Arc had done just two centuries
before, St. Jean de Losne saved the country in 1636. When the Imperial
forces under Galas attempted the occupation of Burgundy, the dauntless
townsfolk long held the enemy at bay and compelled final retreat. After
generations profited by this heroism. Until the great year of 1789, the
town, by royal edict, enjoyed complete immunity from taxation. On the
outbreak of the Revolution, with true patriotic spirit, the citizens
surrendered those privileges, of their own free will sharing the public
burdens.
The first sight that meets the eye on entering St. Jean de Losne is
the monument erected in commemoration of the siege. “Better late than
never,” is a proverb applicable to public as well as private affairs of
conscience.
A little farther, and we reach the church of St. Jean. It contains a
magnificent pulpit, carved from a single block of rich red marble, the
niches ornamented with charming statuettes of the apostles. Close by is
the Hôtel de Ville, in which are some interesting historic relics. As I
passed through the courtyard, I saw an odd sight. One might have fancied
that a second Imperial army threatened a siege, and that the townsfolk
were laying in stores. The pavement was piled with bread and meat,
whilst butchers and bakers were busily engaged in dividing these into
portions, authorities, municipal, military and police, looking on.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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