East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
I learned that these rations were for the regiments quartered in the
town during the autumn manoeuvres. Every day such distributions take
place; in country places the troops have recourse to the peasants, very
often being treated as guests. A young friend, serving his three years,
told me that nowhere had he found country folk more hospitable than in
the Côte d’Or. No sooner did the soldiers make their appearance in a
village, than forth came the inhabitants to welcome them, officers being
carried off to châteaux, men by twos and threes to the home of curé or
small owner. “Not a peasant,” he said, “but would bring up a bottle
of good wine from his cellar, and often after dinner we would get up a
dance out of doors. On the saddle sometimes from two in the morning till
twelve at noon, the kind reception and the jollity of the evening made
up for the hardship and fatigue. We have just had several days of bad
weather, and had to sleep on straw in barns and outhouses, wherever
indeed shelter was to be had. Not one of us ever lost heart or temper;
we remained gay as larks all the time.”
An hour’s railway journey from St. Jean de Losne takes the traveller to
Lons-le-Saulnier, beautifully situated at the foot of the Jura range on
the threshold of wild and romantic scenery.
A decade had not robbed this little town of its old-world look familiar
to me, but meantime a new Lons-le-Saulnier had sprung up. Since my first
visit a handsome bathing establishment has been built, with casino,
concert-room, and all the other essentials of an inland watering-place.
The waters are especially recommended for skin affections, gout, and
rheumatism. Formerly the mineral springs of Lons, as the townsfolk
lazily call the place, were chiefly frequented by residents and near
neighbours. Improved accommodation, increased accessibility, cheapened
travel and additional attractions, have changed matters. The season
opening in May, and lasting till the end of October, is now patronised
by hundreds of visitors from all parts of eastern France. These health
resorts are much more sociable than our own. Folks drop alike social,
political, and religious differences for the time being, and cultivate
the art of being agreeable as only French people can. Excursions,
picnics, and pleasure parties are arranged; in the evening the young
folks dance whilst their elders play a rubber of whist, chat, look on,
or make marriages. Many a wedding is arranged during the _Saison des
Bains_, nor can such unions be called _mariages de convenance_, as in
holiday-time intercourse is comparatively unrestricted. Grown-up or
growing-up sons and daughters then meet as those on English or American
soil.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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