East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
Another vexation of unfortunate _annexés_ is in the matter of
bookbinding. French people naturally like to have their books bound in
French style, but it is next to impossible to get this done in Alsace.
If the books are bound in France, there is the extra cost of carriage
and duty.
A very pleasant time I had under this French roof on German soil. Our
days were spent in walks and drives, our evenings entertained with music
and declamation. Now we had the Kreutzer Sonata exquisitely performed by
amateur musicians, now we listened to selections from Lamartine, Nadaud,
Victor Hugo and others, as admirably rendered by a member of this
accomplished family, all the members of which were now gathered
together. I saw something alike of their poorer and richer neighbours,
all of course being their country-people. This social circle, including
the household staff, was rigorously French.
Let me now describe a Lorraine lunch, as the French _goûter_ or
afternoon collation is universally called, our hosts being a family of
peasant farmers, their guests the house party from the château. We had
only to drive a mile or two before quitting annexed France for France
proper, the respective frontiers indicated by tall posts bearing the
name and eagle of the German Empire and the R.F. of France.
“You are now on French soil,” said my host to me with a smile of
satisfaction, and the very horses seemed to realise the welcome fact.
Right merrily they trotted along, joyfully sniffing the air of home.
The Lorraine villages are very unlike their spick and span neighbours of
Alsace, visited by me two years before. Why Catholic villages should be
dirty and Protestant ones clean, I will not attempt to explain. Such,
however, is the case. As we drove through the line of dung-heaps and
liquid manure rising above what looked like barns, I was ill-prepared
for the comfort and tidiness prevailing within. What a change when the
door opened, and our neatly dressed entertainers ushered us into their
dining-room! Here, looking on to a well-kept garden was a table spread
with spotless linen, covers being laid as in a middle-class house.
An armchair, invariable token of respect, was placed for the English
visitor; then we sat down to table, two blue-bloused men, uncle and
nephew, and three elderly women in mob caps and grey print gowns,
dispensing hospitality to their guests, belonging to the _noblesse_
of Lorraine. There was no show of subservience on the one part, or of
condescension on the other. Conversation flowed easily and gaily as at
the château itself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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