East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
A short drive brought us to a noble château, inside a beautifully wooded
park, the iron gateway showing armorial bearings. Indoors there
was nothing to remind me that I had exchanged Republican France for
autocratic Prussia. Guests, servants, speech, usages, books, were
French, or, in the case of the three latter, English. Every member of
the family spoke English, afternoon tea was served as at home, and the
latest Tauchnitz volumes lay on the table.
Difficult indeed it seemed to realise that I had crossed the frontier,
that though within easy reach, almost in sight of it, the miss, alas!
Was as good as a mile.
Alsace-Lorraine, I may here mention, is a verbal annexation dating
from 1871. Whilst Alsace was German until its conquest by Louis XIV.,
Lorraine, the country of Jeanne d’Arc, had been in part French and
French-speaking for centuries. Alsace under French _régime_ retained
alike Protestantism and Teutonic speech. We can easily understand that
the changes of 1871 should come much harder to the Catholic Lorrainers
than to their Protestant Alsatian neighbours.
Bitterness of feeling does not seem to me to diminish with time. On the
occasion of my third visit to Germanised France, I found things much
the same, the clinging to France ineradicable as ever, nothing like the
faintest sign of reconciliation with Imperial rule.
One might suppose that, after a generation, some slight approach to
intercourse would exist among the French and Prussian populations. By
the upper classes the Germans, no matter what their rank or position,
remain tabooed as were Jews in the Ghetto of former days.
At luncheon next day, my host smilingly informed me that he had filled
up the paper left by the commissary of police, concerning their newly
arrived English visitor. We are here, it must be remembered, in a
perpetual state of siege.
“I put down Canterbury as your birthplace--” he began.
“Good Heavens!” exclaimed I, “I was born near Ipswich.”
“Oh!” he said, smiling, “I just put down the first name that occurred to
me, and filled in particulars as to age, etc.,” here he bowed, “after a
fashion which I felt would be satisfactory to yourself.”
This kind of domiciliary visit may appear a joking matter, but to live
under a state of siege is no subject for pleasantry, as I shall show
further on. Here is another instance of the comic side of annexation, if
the adjective could be applied to such a subject. In the salon I noticed
a sofa cushion, covered, as I thought to my astonishment, with the
Prussian flag. But my hostess smilingly informed me that, as the
Tricolour was forbidden in Germanised Lorraine, by way of having the
next best thing to it, she had used the Russian colours, symbol of the
new ally of France.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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