East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
The railway takes us from Strasburg in an hour to the picturesque old
town of Saverne, beautifully placed above the Zorn. Turning our backs
upon the one long street winding upwards to the château, we follow a
road leading into the farthermost recesses of the valley, from which
rise on either side the wooded spurs of the lower Vosges. Here in
a natural _cul-de-sac_, wedged in between pine-clad slopes, is as
delightful a retreat as genius or a literary worker could desire. On the
superb September day of my visit the place looked its best, and warm
was the welcome we received from the occupiers, a cultivated and
distinguished French Protestant family, formerly living at Srasburg, but
since the events of 1870-1 removed to Nancy. They hired this beautiful
place from year to year, merely spending a few weeks here during the
Long Vacation. The intellectual atmosphere still recalled bygone days,
when Edmond About used to gather round him literary brethren, alike
French and foreign. Pleasant it was to find here English-speaking,
England-loving, French people. Nothing can be simpler than the house
itself, in spite of its somewhat pretentious tower of which About wrote
so fondly. His study is a small, low-pitched room, not too well lighted,
but having a lovely outlook; beyond, the long, narrow gardens, fruit,
flower and vegetable, one leading out of another, rising pine woods and
the lofty peaks of the Vosges. So remote is this spot that wild deer
venture into the gardens, whilst squirrels make themselves at home
close to the house doors. Our host gave me much information about the
peasants. Although not nearly so prosperous as before the annexation,
they are doing fairly well. Some, indeed, are well off, possessing
capital to the amount of several thousand pounds, whilst a millionaire,
that is, the possessor of a million francs or forty thousand pounds, is
found here and there. The severance from France entailed, however, one
enormous loss on the farmer. This was the withdrawal of tobacco culture,
a monopoly of the French State which afforded maximum profits to the
cultivator. With regard to the indebtedness of the peasant-owner, my
informant said that it certainly existed, but not to any great extent,
usury having been prohibited by the local Reichstag a few years before.
Again I found myself among French surroundings, French traditions,
French speech. Let me add, however, that I heard none of the passionate
regrets, recriminations, and wishes that had constantly fallen on my
ears ten years before. One prayer, and one only, seems in every heart,
on every lip, “Peace, peace--only let us have peace!” It must be borne
in mind that 20,000 French Alsatians quitted Strasburg alone, and that
those of the better classes who were unable to emigrate sent their young
sons across the frontier before the age of seventeen. Thus, by a gradual
process, the French element is being eliminated from the towns, whilst
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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