East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
in the country annexation came in a very different guise.
This will be seen from the account of another excursion made with French
friends living in Strasburg.
It is a beautiful drive to Blaesheim, southwest of the city, in a direct
line with the Vosges and Oberlin’s country. We pass the enormous public
slaughterhouses and interminable lines of brand-new barracks, then under
one of the twelve stone gates with double portals that now protect the
city, leaving behind us the tremendous earthworks and powder magazines,
and are soon in the open plain. This vast plain is fertile and well
cultivated. On either side we see narrow, ribbon-like strips of maize,
potatoes, clover, hops, beetroot, and hemp. There are no apparent
boundaries of the various properties and no trees or houses to break
the uniformity. The farm-houses and premises, as in the Pyrenees, are
grouped together, forming the prettiest, neatest villages imaginable.
Entzheim is one of these. The broad, clean street, the large
white-washed timber houses, with projecting porches and roofs, may stand
for a type of the Alsatian “Dorf.” The houses are white-washed outside
once a year, the mahogany-coloured rafters, placed crosswise, forming
effective ornamentation. No manure heaps before the door are seen
here, as in Brittany, all is clean and sightly. We meet numbers of
pedestrians, the women mostly wearing the Alsatian head-dress, an
enormous bow of broad black ribbon with long ends, worn fan-like on
the head, and lending an air of great severity. The remainder of the
costume--short blue or red skirt (the colours distinguishing Protestant
and Catholic), gay kerchief, and apron--have all but vanished. As
we approach our destination the outlines of the Vosges become more
distinct, and the plain is broken by sloping vineyards and fir woods.
We see no labourers afield, and, with one exception, no cattle. It is
strange how often cattle are cooped up in pastoral regions. The farming
here is on the old plan, and milch cows are stabled from January to
December, only being taken out to water. Agricultural machinery and new
methods are penetrating these villages at a snail’s pace. The division
of property is excessive. There are no lease-holds, and every farmer,
alike on a small or large scale, is an owner.
Two classes in Alsace have been partly won over to the German rule; one
is that of the Protestant clergy, the other that of the peasants.
The Third Empire persistently snubbed its Protestant subjects, then,
as at the time of the Revocation, numbering many most distinguished
citizens. No attempts, moreover, were made to Gallicise the
German-speaking population of the Rhine provinces. Thus the wrench was
much less felt here than in Catholic, French-speaking Lorraine. Higher
stipends, good dwelling-houses and schools, have done much to soften
annexation to the clergy. An afternoon “at home” in a country parsonage
a few miles from Strasburg, reminded me of similar functions in an
English rectory.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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