East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
Unidyllic, yet full of instruction, is the drive in the opposite
direction to Kehl. We are here approaching friendly frontiers, yet the
aspect is hardly less dreadful. True that cannon do not bristle on the
outer line of the triple fortifications; otherwise the state of things
is similar. We see lines of vast powder magazines, enormous barracks
of recent construction, preparations for defence, on a scale altogether
inconceivable and indescribable. Little wonder that meat is a shilling
a pound, instead of fourpence as before the annexation, that bread has
doubled in price, taxation also, and, to make matters worse, that trade
has remained persistently dull!
A tremendous triple-arched, stone gate, guarded by sentinels, has been
erected on this side of the lower Rhine, over against the Duchy of
Baden. No sooner are we through than our hearts are rejoiced with signs
of peace and innocent enjoyment, restaurants and coffee gardens, family
groups resting under the trees. Beyond, flowing briskly amid wooded
banks to right and left, is the Rhine, a glorious sight, compensating
for so many that have just given us the heartache.
Of Strasburg I will say little. Full descriptions of the new city, for
such an expression is no figure of speech, are given in the English,
French, and German guide books. The first care of the German Government
after coming into possession was to repair the havoc caused by the
bombardment, the rebuilding of public buildings, monuments and streets
that had been partially or entirely destroyed in 1871. Among these were
the Museum and Public Library, the Protestant church, several orphanages
and hospitals, lastly, incredible as it may seem, the beautiful
octagonal tower of the Cathedral. The incidents of this vandalism have
just been graphically described in the new volume of the brothers’
Margueritte prose epic, dealing with the Franco-Prussian War, entitled
“Les Braves Gens.”
I remember writing on the occasion of my first visit to Strasburg, a few
years after these events--“There is very little to see at Strasburg now.
The Library with its priceless treasures of books and manuscripts, the
Museum of painting and sculpture, rich in _chefs d’oeuvre_ of the French
school, the handsome Protestant church, the theatre, the Palais de
Justice, were all completely destroyed by the Prussian bombardment,
not to speak of buildings of lesser importance, four hundred private
dwellings, and hundreds of civilians killed and wounded by the shells.
Nor was the cathedral spared, and would doubtless have perished
altogether also but for the enforced surrender of the heroic city.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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