“The dry burning sun makes life almost intolerable, so that there has
been hardly a soul on the streets all day. ‘Mark’ and I had a good time
at the Montana Club last night. He simply beats the world telling
stories, but we find some bright lights here. There were present Senator
Sanders, Major Maginnis, Hugh McQuade, A. J. Seligman, Judge Knowles, of
the United States Supreme Court, who introduced Mr. Beecher in Deer
Lodge and Butte in 1883; L. A. Walker, Dr. C. K. Cole, A. J. Steele, and
Frank L. Sizer. We have very heavy mails, but are all too tired to open
and read letters that are not absolutely necessary to be read.
“‘Mark’ lay around on the floor of his room all day reading and writing
in his notebook and smoking. In the gloaming Dr. Cole, with his
trotters, drove ‘Mark’ and Mrs. Clemens out to Broadwater, four miles.
The heat gave way to a delicious balmy breeze that reinvigorated
everybody. How delightful are these summer evenings in the Rocky
Mountains!
* * * * *
“Monday, August 5th, Missoula, Montana.
“Senator Sanders walked with ‘Mark’ to the station in Helena this
morning, while I accompanied the ladies in a carriage. Whom should we
meet walking the platform of the station but Mrs. Henry Ward Beecher, on
her way to visit her son Herbert in Port Townsend. It was a delightful
surprise. Senator Sanders at once recognized her, as in 1883 he joined
our party and drove from Helena (then the end of the eastern section of
the Northern Pacific Railroad) to Missoula, the eastern end of the
western division. We then drove in a carriage with four horses, via
Butte and Deer Lodge, and it took four days to make the journey. Senator
Sanders travelled the same distance in five hours with us to-day in a
Pullman car.
“At Missoula we all drove in a ‘bus’ to the Florence House, the ladies
inside and ‘Mark’ and I outside with the driver. Here we saw the first
sign of the decadence of the horse: a man riding a bicycle alongside the
bus, leading a horse to a nearby blacksmith shop. At ‘Mark’s’ suggestion
I caught a snapshot of that scene. Officers from Fort Missoula, four
miles out, had driven in with ambulances and an invitation from
Lieutenant-Colonel Burt, commandant, for our entire party to dine at the
fort. The ladies accepted. ‘Mark’ went to bed and I looked after the
business.
“We had a large audience in a small hall, the patrons being mainly
officers of the fort and their families. As most of the ladies who marry
army officers come from our best Eastern society, it was a gathering of
people who appreciated the occasion. After the lecture, the meeting took
the form of a social reception, and it was midnight before it broke up.
The day has been one of delight to all of us. As we leave at 2:30 P.M.
to-morrow, all have accepted an invitation to witness guard-mounting and
lunch early at the fort.
* * * * *
“August 7th.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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