Ecclesiastical Vestments: Their development and historyMacalister, Robert Alexander Stewart
History
Ecclesiastical Vestments: Their development and history
Macalister, Robert Alexander Stewart
Church vestments
83. TRINITY, MOST HOLY.—White tunic and scapular, tawny cappa signed
with Greek cross fourchée in red and blue. Similar cross on scapular.
Black sandals.
84. URBANISTS.—Blackish vestis and scapular, tawny mantellum at service,
white gremial cloth, white and black vela on head.
85. URSULA, ST.—Black vestis girded with cord, white gremial cloth, long
black velum on head.
86. URSULA, ST (_Rome_).—Woollen vestis of mingled black and violet,
with black tunic fastened by black leather girdle. Usual vela on head,
the black one reaching to the knees.
87. URSULA, ST (_Parma_).—Black vestis, very long dark violet pallium,
the hem girt up in the girdle, and that part over the head concealing
the eyes.
88. VALLUMBROSANAE.—As monks, but with black cuculla; usual vela on head.
89. MINISTRANTES INFIRMIS (_Belgium_).—Black dress and scapular; white
velum over head and shoulders.
90. MINISTRANTES INFIRMIS (_Liburni_).—Blue dress with long and wide
sleeves, white velamen over head and breast, another white velamen loose
on head girded with rope round waist.
91. SACRAMENT, POOR VIRGINS OF THE HOLY.—Woollen tawny tunic girt with
rope. White velamen on head.
MEDIAEVAL UNIVERSITY COSTUME.
The details here given respecting mediaeval university costume are
abridged from a long and exhaustive paper by Prof. E. C. Clark in vol.
50 of the _Archaeological Journal_.
There is no doubt that the university dress of the middle ages is an
adaptation of monastic costume. The original schools from which the
universities were developed were of a clerical character, and their
members wore clerical dress. The dress of the mediaeval universities was
international, unlike the costume worn to-day; hence the following
account, while primarily concerned with the English universities, will
serve as a description of Continental university dress as well.
The system of degrees was developed in France by the end of the
thirteenth century. There were four grades: first, the ordinary scholar
or undergraduate; then the determinant; thirdly the licentiate; and
fourthly the master, professor or doctor. The undergraduate resided,
attended lectures, and argued on questions in the schools; the
determinant 'determined' or decided on questions upon which he had
previously merely argued; the licentiate received the chancellor's
'licence' to incept (_i.e._, take the steps necessary for obtaining the
master's degrees), to lecture, and to dispute in school exercises. The
mastership was the highest grade, and it included the regent, who was
engaged in teaching, and the non-regent, who had ceased to teach. From
the second grade probably sprung the baccalaureat; the bachelor was at
first a kind of supernumerary teacher, whose lectures were probably
recognised only within his own university.
The robes are thus described:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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