Ecclesiastical Vestments: Their development and historyMacalister, Robert Alexander Stewart
History
Ecclesiastical Vestments: Their development and history
Macalister, Robert Alexander Stewart
Church vestments
1. _Toga or roba talaris_, the simplest and most general form of
university dress, probably originally derived from the Benedictine
habit. It was full and flowing, open in front, with wide sleeves through
which the arms passed their whole length. Subsequent modifications
curtailed the sleeves for undergraduates (retaining the fuller form for
mourning), and (in England) introduced distinctive marks for the various
colleges. The modern Bachelor and Master of Arts gown is derived from
this dress combined with other garments. In certain colleges in Oxford
it was directed to be sewn up from the wearer's middle to the ground. In
Clare Hall, Cambridge, fellows were permitted to line it with fur.
_Gona_ and _Epitogium_, which we meet with in certain mediaeval
statutes, are probably synonyms of this.
2. _Hood._ The hood (_caputium_) was originally the head-covering in bad
weather; it was afterwards dropped on the shoulders, and then assumed
the form of a small cape. A large _tippet_ is sometimes seen
beneath this cape in representations of academical costume. The
_Undergraduate's_ or _Scholar's hood_ was black, not lined, and to it a
long liripipe or streamer was sewn at the back; the _Graduate's_ was
furred or lined, with a short liripipe. The various degrees were
indicated by differences of lining; bachelors wore badger's fur or
lamb's wool; licentiates and regents wore minever or some more expensive
fur; non-regents wore silk. When the undergraduates abandoned hoods
(before sixteenth century; exact date uncertain) they became a
distinctive mark of the attainment of a degree.
The liripipe was also called _tipetum_ or _cornetum_. The latter may be
the origin of the French _cornette_, a silk band formerly worn by French
doctors of law, and a possible origin for the modern English scarf. The
word _liripipe_ is also used to denote pendant false sleeves, and also
the tails of long-pointed shoes. This, however, lies rather in the
region of everyday costume. In 1507, at Oxford, we find _typet_ or
_cornetum_ used to denote an alternative for the _toga talaris_ allowed
to Bachelors of Civil Law. This is clearly not the tail of a hood, but
its exact significance is uncertain.
3. _Mantellum._ The origin and meaning of this word are alike uncertain.
The use of '_mantelli_ or _liripipia_, commonly called typets,' was
prohibited to fellows and scholars of Magdalen College, Oxford, by a
statute dated 1479, except _infirmitatis causa_. From this we may infer
that the _mantellus_ (also called _mantella_ or _mantellum_) was
something akin to the liripipe. In another notice (1239) they are
coupled with _cappae_: certain riotous clerks had to march in a
penitential procession '_sine cappis et mantellis_.' Prof. Clark infers
from these passages and from other sources that the academical mantellum
'is not a hood, but is worn either instead of, or in addition to, the
hood, with the cope, or else instead of the cope or long tabard.'
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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