Ecclesiastical Vestments: Their development and historyMacalister, Robert Alexander Stewart
History
Ecclesiastical Vestments: Their development and history
Macalister, Robert Alexander Stewart
Church vestments
'Albe sunt viginti de serico principales.'—Inv. Westminster Abbey, 1388.
'30 albes of old cloth of Baudkyn.'—Inv. Peterborough, 1539.
'One olde aulbe of whyte velvyt.'—Inv. St Martin Dover, 1536.
The proper colour of the alb was white; but in England coloured albs
were sometimes worn, and we meet with such vestments in inventories
_passim_. The following is a selection:
'Red albes for Passion week, 27.
'40 Blue albes of divers sorts.
'7 Albes called Ferial black.'—Inv. Peterborough, 1539.
'Alba de rubea sindone brudata.'—Inv. Canterbury.
The ornamentation of the alb, in the earlier years of the third period,
sometimes consisted of round gold plates, just above the lower hem of
the vestment, one on either side. Occasionally there were rows of small
gold plates arranged round the lower edge. Albs of the first kind were
called _albae sigillatae_, from the seal-like appearance of the gold
plates. Albs of the second kind were named _albae bullatae_. Dr Rock
quotes the following:
'Camisias albas sigillatas holosericas.'—Record of gift of King
Æthelwulf to St Peter's, Rome, in Liber Pontific. in Vita Benedicti
III, t. iii, p. 168, ed. Vignolio.
'Alba bona et bullata.'—Peterborough, A.D. 1189.
The more usual ornamentation, however, and that which became universal
in later years, consisted in ornamental patches of embroidery,
technically called _apparels_, sewn on to various parts of the vestment.
There were two such rectangular patches just above the lower hem,[51]
one in front, one behind; two similar patches, one on the back, the
other on the breast; two small patches, one on each cuff; a narrow strip
encircling the aperture for the head, more for use (as a binding to
prevent tearing) than for ornament; and, in earlier examples, two narrow
strips running down in front and two behind, like the _clavi_ of the
Roman tunic.
In the earliest representations of albs, as seen on sculptured
monuments, the vestment is left plain; one of the earliest apparelled
albs being on an effigy to the memory of Bishop Giffard, at Worcester,
1301. This, however, does not imply more than that the apparels were
originally painted on, and that the paint has worn off.
Another difference is observable between the cuff-apparels of early
effigies and of those of later date. In the early albs the cuff-apparel
invariably encircles the whole wrist; but in later specimens we find
that it has shrunk to a small square patch, sewn on the part of the
sleeve which is toward the back of the hand.
Dr Rock has shown some reason for believing that the apparels were
occasionally hung loose over their proper place; the lower hem apparels
being suspended from the girdle, and those on the breast and back being
fastened together by two cords, between which the head was passed, and
which consequently, when in position, ran across the shoulders. This was
obviously suggested by convenience; for the entry in the accounts of St
Peter's, Sandwich—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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