The island is big, about five by fifteen miles, and it must have been
a fine piece of land. It still was, even though mucked everywhere with
white-to-greenish bird dung. There were steep hills on the mainland
side, marshes to seaward, and in the middle natural meadowland broken
by woods containing pine, and some beech and maple. We moored in a
small but fairly deep harbor at a wharf for loading foods. Our barracks
stood just off the wharf. In addition to all the necessities, there was
a two-way radio, marked "Use in emergency only", and a handbook with
information on approximate numbers of birds to be taken, locations
of nesting sites, and so on. Equipment, including snares and nets,
was stored in an equipment room. And there was a storeroom containing
packaged foods, no freezing or cooling necessary for preservation.
Behind the barracks stood a warehouse for storing processed birds, and
a shop with the processors themselves. Everything looked orderly and
efficient. A small plant supplied us with light and heat and power for
the machines.
We arrived in November. By December, the first sea birds began to
return to their nesting sites, a few at a time. Soon we were so busy
snagging them as they came to land that we had little time for anything
but work and sleep. Even so, Bill took the time to salt several dozens
of gannets and fulmars for future eating, and he was looking forward to
the eggs.
Spring and early summer soon rolled around, and we were collecting
young birds, the nestlings. So it went.
I can't say any of us liked the work. For one thing we all sickened
of the endless slaughter. For another, the stench and dirt were
overwhelming. The island should have been a fine place for living.
There were sheltered spots for houses, a small harbor, woodlots,
meadows for cattle and pigs, some bottom land for food crops, the sea
for fish--a fine location; but it was ruined by birds. It was a slimy,
stinking hell.
The birds flew everywhere in huge flocks, especially in the morning
when the gannets and fulmars came back from fishing at sea. Excrement
fell from the sky like a stinking sleet. We couldn't get away from the
smell or the smell away from us. It was in our clothing, hair, under
our fingernails. No watermen ever washed so often or so thoroughly as
we did, but the stink remained. We lost weight and appetite steadily,
for the packaged food tasted of excrement soon after it was opened, or
seemed to, which is just as bad.
However, by the end of June most of the birds had left, and we had our
helicopter inspection. The same man who was fascinated by the cold
remains of a couple of eggs in my kitchen was on this route, and we
cooked three or four of our chickens. His enormous appetite sharpened
ours, and we had a feast. He was almost tearfully grateful. By July,
the freighter had put in, loaded, and left. For the first time in many
months, we were unoccupied.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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