Edinburgh: Picturesque NotesStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Edinburgh: Picturesque Notes
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
The scene suggests reflections on fame and on man’s injustice to the
dead. You see Dugald Stewart rather more handsomely commemorated than
Burns. Immediately below, in the Canongate churchyard, lies Robert
Fergusson, Burns’s master in his art, who died insane while yet a
stripling; and if Dugald Stewart has been somewhat too boisterously
acclaimed, the Edinburgh poet, on the other hand, is most unrighteously
forgotten. The votaries of Burns, a crew too common in all ranks in
Scotland and more remarkable for number than discretion, eagerly suppress
all mention of the lad who handed to him the poetic impulse and, up to
the time when he grew famous, continued to influence him in his manner
and the choice of subjects. Burns himself not only acknowledged his debt
in a fragment of autobiography, but erected a tomb over the grave in
Canongate churchyard. This was worthy of an artist, but it was done in
vain; and although I think I have read nearly all the biographies of
Burns, I cannot remember one in which the modesty of nature was not
violated, or where Fergusson was not sacrificed to the credit of his
follower’s originality. There is a kind of gaping admiration that would
fain roll Shakespeare and Bacon into one, to have a bigger thing to gape
at; and a class of men who cannot edit one author without disparaging all
others. They are indeed mistaken if they think to please the great
originals; and whoever puts Fergusson right with fame, cannot do better
than dedicate his labours to the memory of Burns, who will be the best
delighted of the dead.
[Picture: Queen Mary’s Bath]
Of all places for a view, this Calton Hill is perhaps the best; since you
can see the Castle, which you lose from the Castle, and Arthur’s Seat,
which you cannot see from Arthur’s Seat. It is the place to stroll on
one of those days of sunshine and east wind which are so common in our
more than temperate summer. The breeze comes off the sea, with a little
of the freshness, and that touch of chill, peculiar to the quarter, which
is delightful to certain very ruddy organizations and greatly the reverse
to the majority of mankind. It brings with it a faint, floating haze, a
cunning decolourizer, although not thick enough to obscure outlines near
at hand. But the haze lies more thickly to windward at the far end of
Musselburgh Bay; and over the Links of Aberlady and Berwick Law and the
hump of the Bass Rock it assumes the aspect of a bank of thin sea fog.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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