Edinburgh: Picturesque NotesStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Edinburgh: Picturesque Notes
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
These are the main features of the scene roughly sketched. How they are
all tilted by the inclination of the ground, how each stands out in
delicate relief against the rest, what manifold detail, and play of sun
and shadow, animate and accentuate the picture, is a matter for a person
on the spot, and turning swiftly on his heels, to grasp and bind together
in one comprehensive look. It is the character of such a prospect, to be
full of change and of things moving. The multiplicity embarrasses the
eye; and the mind, among so much, suffers itself to grow absorbed with
single points. You remark a tree in a hedgerow, or follow a cart along a
country road. You turn to the city, and see children, dwarfed by
distance into pigmies, at play about suburban doorsteps; you have a
glimpse upon a thoroughfare where people are densely moving; you note
ridge after ridge of chimney-stacks running downhill one behind another,
and church spires rising bravely from the sea of roofs. At one of the
innumerable windows, you watch a figure moving; on one of the multitude
of roofs, you watch clambering chimney-sweeps. The wind takes a run and
scatters the smoke; bells are heard, far and near, faint and loud, to
tell the hour; or perhaps a bird goes dipping evenly over the housetops,
like a gull across the waves. And here you are in the meantime, on this
pastoral hillside, among nibbling sheep and looked upon by monumental
buildings.
Return thither on some clear, dark, moonless night, with a ring of frost
in the air, and only a star or two set sparsedly in the vault of heaven;
and you will find a sight as stimulating as the hoariest summit of the
Alps. The solitude seems perfect; the patient astronomer, flat on his
back under the Observatory dome and spying heaven’s secrets, is your only
neighbour; and yet from all round you there come up the dull hum of the
city, the tramp of countless people marching out of time, the rattle of
carriages and the continuous keen jingle of the tramway bells. An hour
or so before, the gas was turned on; lamplighters scoured the city; in
every house, from kitchen to attic, the windows kindled and gleamed forth
into the dusk. And so now, although the town lies blue and darkling on
her hills, innumerable spots of the bright element shine far and near
along the pavements and upon the high facades. Moving lights of the
railway pass and repass below the stationary lights upon the bridge.
Lights burn in the jail. Lights burn high up in the tall _lands_ and on
the Castle turrets, they burn low down in Greenside or along the Park.
They run out one beyond the other into the dark country. They walk in a
procession down to Leith, and shine singly far along Leith Pier. Thus,
the plan of the city and her suburbs is mapped out upon the ground of
blackness, as when a child pricks a drawing full of pinholes and exposes
it before a candle; not the darkest night of winter can conceal her high
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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