Edinburgh: Picturesque NotesStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Edinburgh: Picturesque Notes
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
At length, Edinburgh, with her satellite hills and all the sloping
country, are sheeted up in white. If it has happened in the dark hours,
nurses pluck their children out of bed and run with them to some
commanding window, whence they may see the change that has been worked
upon earth’s face. ‘A’ the hills are covered wi’ snaw,’ they sing, ‘and
Winter’s noo come fairly!’ And the children, marvelling at the silence
and the white landscape, find a spell appropriate to the season in the
words. The reverberation of the snow increases the pale daylight, and
brings all objects nearer the eye. The Pentlands are smooth and
glittering, with here and there the black ribbon of a dry-stone dyke, and
here and there, if there be wind, a cloud of blowing snow upon a
shoulder. The Firth seems a leaden creek, that a man might almost jump
across, between well-powdered Lothian and well-powdered Fife. And the
effect is not, as in other cities, a thing of half a day; the streets are
soon trodden black, but the country keeps its virgin white; and you have
only to lift your eyes and look over miles of country snow. An
indescribable cheerfulness breathes about the city; and the well-fed
heart sits lightly and beats gaily in the—bosom. It is New-year’s
weather.
New-year’s Day, the great national festival, is a time of family
expansions and of deep carousal. Sometimes, by a sore stoke of fate for
this Calvinistic people, the year’s anniversary fails upon a Sunday, when
the public-houses are inexorably closed, when singing and even whistling
is banished from our homes and highways, and the oldest toper feels
called upon to go to church. Thus pulled about, as if between two
loyalties, the Scotch have to decide many nice cases of conscience, and
ride the marches narrowly between the weekly and the annual observance.
A party of convivial musicians, next door to a friend of mine, hung
suspended in this manner on the brink of their diversions. From ten
o’clock on Sunday night, my friend heard them tuning their instruments:
and as the hour of liberty drew near, each must have had his music open,
his bow in readiness across the fiddle, his foot already raised to mark
the time, and his nerves braced for execution; for hardly had the twelfth
stroke sounded from the earliest steeple, before they had launced forth
into a secular bravura.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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