In a population of such dimensions, composed as has been described,
there was necessarily a good deal of leisure; and leisure leads to
sociability. Edinburgh in those days was one of the most sociable towns
in the world. By that time “society,” in the conventional sense, had,
with a few lingering exceptions, shifted itself out of the Old Town into
the New, or into the suburbs; and, with this change, there had been a
considerable change of manners. Much of the formality, and at the same
time much of the coarseness, of an older stage of Scottish life had been
civilised away,—the absurd etiquette of the old dancing assemblies, for
example, and the more monstrous excesses of hard drinking. But the
convivial spirit, and many of the old convivial forms, remained. Dinner
parties were frequent; and the old custom of “toasts” and “sentiments”
by the hosts and the guests over their wine was still in fashion. Lord
Cockburn’s description of those dinner parties of his youth is one of
the best passages in his book. But it is on the supper parties that he
dwells with most evident affection. There were various kinds of supper
parties: the oyster supper at taverns, the bachelor supper in lodgings,
and the real domestic supper, to which both sexes were invited; which
last Lord Cockburn vaunts as a delightful institution of Edinburgh,
which the advancing lateness of the dinner-hour had unhappily
superseded. In short, in every form and way, from the set dinner party,
with its immense consumption of claret, in the houses of the more
wealthy, to the homely tea parties of gentlewomen of moderate means,
living in the suburbs of the Old Town, or in _flats_ in the New Town,
and the roystering suppers of young men, where culinary deficiencies
were compensated by good humour and the whisky punch, people were in the
habit of incessantly meeting to spend the evenings together. Lord
Cockburn mentions, as illustrative of the continuance of those sociable
habits of the Edinburgh folks to a somewhat later period than that with
which we are immediately concerned, the fact that for a great many years
after his marriage, which was in 1811, he had not spent above one
evening in every month, on the average, in solitude, _i.e._ without
either being out as a guest, or having friends with him at home. Even
Sydney Smith, though not native and to the manner born, and, with his
English tastes, more fastidious in his ideas of conviviality, retained
to the last a pleasant recollection of those Edinburgh hospitalities, as
experienced by him during his stay in Edinburgh from 1797 to 1802. “When
shall I see Scotland again?” he says in one of his letters: “never shall
I forget the happy days passed there, amidst odious smells, barbarous
sounds, bad suppers, excellent hearts, and the most enlightened and
cultivated understandings.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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