Egypt -- Antiquities; Egypt -- Description and travel
Pigeons circled above their pretty towers. The bats came out, as if they
knew how precious is their black at evening against the ethereal lemon
color, the orange, and the red. The little obelisk beyond the last
sphinx on the left began to change, as in Egypt all things change at
sunset--pylon and dusty bush, colossus and baked earth hovel, sycamore,
and tamarisk, statue and trotting donkey. It looked like a mysterious
finger pointed in warning toward the sky. The Nile began to gleam. Upon
its steel and silver torches of amber flame were lighted. The Libyan
mountains became spectral beyond the tombs of the kings. The tiny, rough
cupolas that mark a grave close to the sphinxes, in daytime dingy and
poor, now seemed made of some splendid material worthy to roof the mummy
of a king. Far off a pool of the Nile, that from here looked like a
little palm-fringed lake, turned ruby red. The flags from the standards
of Luxor, among the minarets, flew out straight against a sky that was
pale as a primrose, almost cold in its amazing delicacy.
I turned, and behind me the moon was risen. Already its silver rays fell
upon the ruins of Karnak; upon the thickets of lotus columns; upon
solitary gateways that now give entrance to no courts; upon the sacred
lake, with its reeds, where the black water-fowl were asleep; upon
sloping walls, shored up by enormous stanchions, like ribs of some
prehistoric leviathan; upon small chambers; upon fallen blocks of
masonry, fragments of architrave and pavement, of capital and cornice;
and upon the people of Karnak--those fascinating people who still cling
to their habitation in the ruins, faithful through misfortune,
affectionate with a steadfastness that defies the cruelty of time; upon
the little, lonely white Sphinx with the woman’s face and the
downward-sloping eyes full of sleepy seduction; upon Rameses II, with
the face of a kindly child, not of a king; upon the Sphinx, bereft of
its companion, which crouches before the kiosk of Taharga, the king of
Ethiopia; upon those two who stand together as if devoted, yet by their
attitudes seem to express characters diametrically opposed, gray men and
vivid, the one with folded arms calling to Peace, the other with arms
stretched down in a gesture of crude determination, summoning War, as if
from the under-world; upon the granite foot and ankle in the temple of
Rameses III, which in their perfection, like the headless Victory in
Paris, and the Niobide Chiaramonti in the Vatican, suggest a great
personality, compose a great personality that once met with is not to be
forgotten: upon these and their companions, who would not forsake the
halls and courts where once they dwelt with splendor, where now they
dwell with ruin that attracts the gaping world. The moon was risen, but
the west was still full of color and light. It faded. There was a
pause.
[Illustration:
From stereograph, copyright by Underwood & Underwood, New York
THE SACRED LOTUS IN THE TEMPLE AT KARNAK]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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