Egypt -- Antiquities; Egypt -- Description and travel
Edfu, in its solemn beauty, in its perfection of form, seems to me to
pass into a region altogether beyond identification with the worship of
any special deity, with particular attributes, perhaps with particular
limitations; one who can be graven upon walls, and upon architraves and
pillars painted in brilliant colors; one who can personally pursue a
criminal, like some policeman in the street; even one who can rise upon
the world in the visible glory of the sun. To me, Edfu must always
represent the world-worship of “the Hidden One”; not Amun, god of the
dead, fused with Ra, with Amsu, or with Khnum: but that other “Hidden
One,” who is God of the happy hunting-ground of savages, with whom the
Buddhist strives to merge his strange serenity of soul; who is adored in
the “Holy Places” by the Moslem, and lifted mystically above the heads
of kneeling Catholics in cathedrals dim with incense, and merrily
praised with the banjo and the trumpet in the streets of black English
cities; who is asked for children by longing women, and for new dolls by
lisping babes; whom the atheist denies in the day, and fears in the
darkness of night; who is on the lips alike of priest and blasphemer,
and in the soul of all human life.
Edfu is the temple of “the Hidden One.” It is not pagan; it is not
Christian: it is a place in which to worship according to the dictates
of your heart.
[Illustration: THE TEMPLE OF EDFU]
Edfu stands alone, not near any other temple, on the bank of the Nile
between Luxor and Assuan. It is not very far from El-Kab, once the
capital of Upper Egypt and it is about two thousand years old. The
building of it took over one hundred and eighty years, and it is the
most perfectly preserved temple to-day of all the antique world. It is
huge and it is splendid. It has towers one hundred and twelve feet high,
a propylon two hundred and fifty-two feet broad, and walls four hundred
and fifty feet long. Begun in the reign of Ptolemy III, it was completed
only fifty-seven years before the birth of Christ.
You know these facts about it, and you forget them, or at least you do
not think of them. What does all that matter when you are alone in Edfu?
Let the antiquarian go with his anxious nose almost touching the stone;
let the Egyptologist peer through his glasses at hieroglyphs and puzzle
out the meaning of cartouches: but let us wander at ease, and worship,
and regard the exquisite form, and drink in the mystical spirit, of this
very wonderful temple.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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