El Toro : $b A motor car story of interior CubaEstep, E. Ralph (Edwin Ralph)
General
El Toro : $b A motor car story of interior Cuba
Estep, E. Ralph (Edwin Ralph)
Automobile travel -- Cuba; Cuba -- Description and travel
Eastward lay La Gloria, Del Tuerto, De Caballete. Three mountains, like
any other mountains, sticking into the clouds. Three mountains, below
which lay Sancti Spiritus. Like Mohammed, the mountains had it on us.
They would not come to us; we would have to go to them. The mountains
were not visible in the morning, but the planter said they were there. We
asked him where was Sancti Spiritus, and he said to go to the mountains.
We asked him how far was Sancti Spiritus, and he shook his head. We
started for the mountains, determined to reach Sancti Spiritus that day
regardless of conditions, distance, or direction.
The same old acts were rehearsed with new scenery. Down gullies we
twisted to wide rivers, forded them and scrambled up the banks, only to
drop again into marsh or perform on the high spots over ruts that the
rain could not wash out, but which it made slippery beyond description.
We did a lot of driving through fields. Where there were fences, they
were either of stone or barbed wire. The latter consisted of two or three
loosely drawn strands of wire, held by an occasional permanent post, but,
principally, by loose sticks. We cut the wires with pliers, dropped the
fence, drove into the field, picked up the fence, joined its loose ends
as best we could and drove on. In order to go a mile or two we sometimes
had to pass through a dozen fields and cut a dozen fences. The fields
which we preferred to the trail were either plowed ground or simply rough
land which never had been tilled. Always, it was covered with stones and
it was never level.
Through the beating rain we rose to the top of the ridge which had framed
our view, and saw, behind us, laid out as on a map, the last river we
had forded and, in front of us, the next one we would have to ford. Away
over at the right, sharp-nosed Pico Tuerto jutted skyward from between
its squatter brothers, Caballete and Gloria. Each successive hill became
higher. Each was flat topped like a small plateau. Between them were
swamps.
A loquacious dissembler at a small town said that a macadam road, a
relic of early Spanish days, started at the next hill and ran straight
to Sancti Spiritus. With tire chains broken and breaking, as they were
dragged over the scraggy roads, climb after climb, descent after descent,
we kept at it, in the pouring rain, looking for that road just at the
top of the next hill. It was like trying to catch up with to-morrow.
Sancti Spiritus was near. We knew that, but night was getting nearer. We
fretted at delay and took unusual chances on the hills. Sancti Spiritus
assumed the aspect of a myth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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