El Toro : $b A motor car story of interior CubaEstep, E. Ralph (Edwin Ralph)
General
El Toro : $b A motor car story of interior Cuba
Estep, E. Ralph (Edwin Ralph)
Automobile travel -- Cuba; Cuba -- Description and travel
We were the victims of our own imagination rather than the victims of
circumstances. We had imagined that Cuba was a sort of national park with
an immense system of boulevards. There is one magnificent highway in
Cuba, fifty-two miles long, which reaches from Havana to San Cristobal.
In publicity it reaches around the world. It has been the course of
automobile road races. Automobile writers, attending said automobile
races, wrote columns about the beautiful Cubaland, in which the wandering
motorist from the north may drive as fast as he likes, while balmy
breezes blow across the palm-sentineled macadam. The government has
started a road from Havana eastward across the island. Some of this
has been surveyed, a little of it graded and it actually exists for a
half-dozen miles out of Havana. Down in Santiago province, General Wood
has built a road or two. The middle of the island is roadless. There is
no continuous travel by vehicle.
Havana presents a wrong idea of Cuba. It is a tourists’ town. It has
boulevards and carriages. Cuba has wandering trails and ox carts. No
four-wheeled vehicle is used outside the towns. Probably no vehicle of
any kind, unless in time of war, ever has made a continuous journey
across the island. The ox carts are for local travel. Cross country
travel is on foot or on ponies.
Yesterday, on the little coast steamer which carried us across the gulf,
we had discussed with eager expectance the fascinations of touring in
Cuba, as presented in the steamship company’s alluring pamphlets. We had
come south with a Packard car to run it fast and furiously for thousands
and thousands of miles under hot weather conditions. A Cuban on the
steamer listened while we recounted our plans for this great trying out
of the speed and endurance of our motor car. He asked us:
“Have you ever been in Cuba?” and, upon our negative reply:
“Do you really think you can drive an automobile through the interior of
Cuba?”
We assured him that we could drive one anywhere, but he merely laughed
and sauntered away to tell the other passengers what seemed to him to
be a funny story. Other Cubans talked to us. They were all iconoclasts
and some of them were plain “knockers.” At first we were insulted and
then our peace of mind was destroyed. Slowly, but surely, we approached
the truth. Everywhere we turned for a reassuring opinion concerning the
suppositious highways, we got the same answer:
“There are no roads; you can’t do it.”
They all explained the impossibility of traversing its valley lands and
mountain regions, of making even a most laborious way across the arroyos,
through the bridgeless rivers, over the barren stone, and in the wide
swamps. There are roads on the map. The maps were originally made by
Spaniards with a greater regard for neat drafting than the truth. It
is hard to find those roads on the earth. Their course occasionally is
marked by washouts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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