Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machinesBrown, Samuel
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Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines
Brown, Samuel
Elastic fabrics; Looms; Rubber industry and trade; Textile fabrics; Weaving
Too much importance cannot be attached to the rigging of the dobby
harness. A 30/9 ply linen cord is desirable and a lingo of about 16 to
the pound. After deciding on the character of the tie-up required, and
when the harness has been threaded in the compart boards, the lingoes
should be looped on the strings, and then left to stand and settle for
a couple of days before leveling. It is better still to run the dobby
machine for a few hours, lifting all the harness and then dropping them,
so as to settle the strings and take out any kinks or loose places which
are bound to exist in a highly cabled linen cord of this character.
The labor required in the tying up and leveling of a string harness
suggests the advisability of great care in determining the tie-up to be
used, so that changes of pattern can be made easily without involving
changes in the tie-up. In order to prolong the life of the harness, in
the adjustment of which so much time and care must necessarily be spent,
it is advisable to apply a dressing of boiled linseed oil, which should
be thoroughly worked into the strings by running the harness for several
hours, using one and one change cards. This should be followed by a
dusting of talc or soapstone, which will add much to the smoothness of
the finish.
To reduce the friction of the strings which operate in the several
outside compart boards, where the strain and wear are particularly acute,
and also to prevent the strings from cutting into the boards themselves,
it is good practice to fix strips of ground glass between the different
rows of strings, just above the compart boards. These strips of glass may
be threaded through drilled holes in the compart board frame.
CONSTRUCTION OF SIMPLE WEBS
Before enlarging further on details of fancy looms, it will be well to
retrace our steps and consider the construction of some of the simpler
forms of web, such as are made on what we have described as plain looms.
The webs best known, perhaps, are those such as are used for men’s
ordinary garter wear, and for cutting up to retail in the regular dry
goods and notions trade. They vary from one-quarter to 2 inches in
width. There are several distinct classes of these goods, the best known
of which are the loom webs, the lisles and the cables, all of which are
of single cloth construction, in which the filling is the main feature.
There are generally two cotton warps used in such goods, one of which
is commonly called the binder and weaves two up and two down, while the
other is called the gut or filler, and works with the rubber warp, one up
and one down. The selvages of these webs are made with the filling, which
passes around a wire at each pick, the wire remaining stationary while
the web is taken away from it in the process of weaving. An illustration
of a loom web of this character is shown at Fig. 6. The draft and cam
arrangement are shown at Fig. 6A.
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